Panix Pass Hike: Following in Suvorov's Footsteps

Hiking the Panix Pass: a Complete Trail Guide from Pigniu to Elm

The Panix Pass is a demanding south-to-north alpine crossing from the Surselva region in Graubünden over the historic pass into the Sernftal in Glarus, ending at the Elm cable car station. 

The total distance is c.14.5 miles, or 23+ Km. It features 4,265 feet (1,300m) of elevation gain and a grueling 5,413 feet (1,650m) of descent - but don’t panic. The trail has an overall difficulty rating of Hard/Alpine (T3), meaning it requires some experience and knee stamina for the long downhill stretch and excellent footwork on the exposed paths.

Getting There and Logistics

On the Pigniu side where the hike starts, you can take the SBB train to Ilanz, then connect to the local PostBus to reach the starting point at Pigniu village. On the Elm side where the hike ends, the trail finishes directly at the Sportbahnen Elm cable car. From here, the Sernftalbus runs regularly back to the Schwanden train station for easy onward travel. 

For trail safety, dogs must be kept on a leash, especially when passing any guarded sheep herds on the Graubünden side (only during certain times of the year). Note that the path passes near the Wichlen military (tank) base on the Glarus side, so you must stick strictly to the marked footpaths and observe any live fire notices.

A Walk Through History: The 1799 Suvorov Retreat

Before you start the trail, it helps to understand the incredible history beneath your feet. In October 1799, during the War of the Second Coalition, the legendary Russian Field Marshal Alexander Suvorov found his 21,000-man army completely surrounded by French forces in the valleys of Central Switzerland. Refusing to surrender, the 69-year-old commander made a desperate and unprecedented gamble to save his men: a strategic retreat straight over the high, frozen wall of the Panix Pass!

During the brutal crossing, the soldiers battled a freezing autumn blizzard without proper winter gear, food, or maps. They even hauled heavy mountain guns over the icy rocks by hand. Tragically, the harsh terrain claimed nearly 3,000 lives and hundreds of pack animals, who slipped off the treacherous, narrow ridges into the abyss. 

Despite the heavy losses, Suvorov successfully broke the French encirclement and escaped to safety. This daring feat earned him the nickname "The Russian Hannibal" and solidified his legacy as a general who never lost a single battle in his entire career (but at a great cost).

Historical Trail Markers to Spot on the Way

Keep an eye out for the historic commemorative plaques and monuments as you hike. First is the Pigniu Dam Plaque, located at the beginning of the hike near the Lag da Pigniu reservoir. It features a striking relief commemorating the grueling path the Russian army took as they began their ascent up the valley (only in this case they started from the Glarus side). 

Next is the Panixerpasshütte Memorial, which is inside or fixed to the unguarded emergency stone shelter at the summit. Look for the brass plaques and entries in the cabin logbook dedicated to the fallen soldiers of the 1799 crossing. 

Down by the tank base, there’s a wooden statue of a Russian soldier, which makes a great trail photo. Finally, look for the Suvorov House in Elm if you complete the descent into the village. General Suvorov spent the night here in a wood-paneled room on October 4-5th, 1799, just before his fateful crossing. It stands today as a preserved historical landmark.

Route and Trail Description

The trek begins with a scenic warm-up past the waterfalls of the turquoise Lag da Pigniu reservoir (although it is possible to shorten the route slightly by taking a less well used path to the right before you reach the lake). 

From the valley floor, you will climb steadily through the alpine meadows of Alp Ranasca and switchback up the slippery grass slopes of Alp Mer. Keep a close eye out for trail markers on the rocky final approach. 

You will eventually top out at the wild, boulder-strewn summit where the isolated Panixerpasshütte sits at 2,400+ meters. This is the ideal spot for your packed lunch, sign the guest book, and look back over the Surselva valley before facing the steep descent into Glarus. 

Heading north, you will quickly drop past the alpine waters of the Häxenseeli, also known as the Witch's Lake. The trail then plunges into the narrow, rugged Jetzbachschlucht gorge. Once you exit the gorge into the open valley floor near the Wichlen military base, follow the flat, signed path parallel to the Sernf river all the way to the Sportbahnen Elm valley station.

Best Time to Visit and Preparation

Only attempt this route between July and September to avoid any bad weather. Because you are climbing the sunny south face, you will warm up quickly on the ascent, so start early to beat the midday sun. 

For safety, be aware that the northern descent through the Jetzbachschlucht gorge can contain slick mud and late snow patches. Never attempt the descent in heavy rain or thick fog. High-traction hiking boots are pretty essential. Trekking poles are highly recommended to help your knees during the relentless 1,650-meter descent into Elm. Fill your water bottles completely in Pigniu, as there are no dependable drinking water sources along the high-alpine sections of the trail.

Where to Eat in Elm

Reward yourself after finishing the trail with these nearby spots.

Restaurant Sternen Elm is located just steps away from the valley station at Obmoos 27. Stop by to celebrate with their signature Elmer Käserösti, which features golden hash browns with onions, bacon, and local Glarus alpine cheese, or enjoy their hearty Italian pasta plates. 

Another great option is Bergrestaurant Ämpächli. If you arrive before the late afternoon, take the brief gondola ride up from the base station. Its massive sun terrace is the ultimate place to grab a cold beer, traditional Swiss daily dishes, and fresh mountain air while looking back at the peaks.

Hiked by Greg Turnbull on 1st of August 2022.