KUNKELS PASS: A JOURNEY THROUGH TIME, TECTONICS & TUNNELS
Nestled in the heart of Eastern Switzerland lies a trail that feels less like a simple hike and more like a trek through a history book. Walking from Vattis to Reichenau-Tamins over the legendary Kunkels Pass takes you along rushing rivers, across ancient frontiers, into World War I cliffside tunnels, and down an old Roman highway.
If you are looking for a day hike packed with dramatic mountain amphitheaters, deep historical secrets, and unforgettable panoramic views, lace up your boots. Here is your step-by-step guide to this spectacular alpine crossing…
ROUTE SUMMARY AT A GLANCE
Distance: ~15 to 19 km (9-12 miles) point-to-point, depending on your exact path and any chosen detours. (Note: Tackling the high-alpine Ringelspitzhuette variation will add roughly 5 km to your total day).
Duration: 4.5 to 6.5 hours of hiking time.
Elevation Profile: ~450 m to 600 m (1,470-1,960 ft) of total ascent from Vattis; ~792 m (2,600 ft) of total descent into Tamins.
Difficulty: Moderate T2 to Challenging T3 in places.
Best Season: May to Oct. for hiking. (Note: The pass transforms into a popular route for ski touring and winter hikers/snowshoers during the snowy months!)
INSIDER LOGISTICS & GETTING TO THE START
While this classic traverse can be completed in either direction, hiking from Vattis to Tamins is highly recommended. Starting in Vattis (which sits at a higher baseline elevation of ~940m) gives you a significantly shorter and gentler ascent up to the pass summit compared to climbing all the way up from the low valley floor of Tamins.
Public Transport from Bad Ragaz:
To reach the starting point, take a beautiful ride along the Tamina Valley using the local Swiss Postbus network:
The Route: Catch the Postbus Line 451 directly from the Bad Ragaz Railway Station.
The Journey: The bus route runs right along the stunning Tamina Valley, winding past Pfaefers, over the Tamina bridge near Valens, and down past the Mapragg reservoir - see my other article for details…
Frequency: The direct bus operates hourly throughout the day and takes roughly 40 to 45 minutes to reach your destination at the Vattis, Dorf bus stop.
PART 1: FOLLOWING THE RIVER FROM VATTIS TO ANCIENT SECRETS
The journey begins in the quiet mountain village of Vattis. Culturally, this hidden enclave is deeply rooted in traditional Swiss alpine farming. Long before it was a peaceful base for hikers, it served as a vital agricultural outpost for the powerful medieval Monastery of Pfaefers, which managed vast swaths of land across these mountains.
From the village center, you follow the rhythmic rush of the Goerbsbach stream as it cuts deep through a dramatic, wild valley. The trail gently gains elevation alongside the water, surrounded by towering limestone walls. As you look up to your left and right, the sky is dominated by the colossal Calanda massif (including the Haldensteiner and Taminser Calanda peaks) and the sheer walls of the Crap Mats.
Keep your ears open for the whistle of marmots, and bring binoculars-the high limestone cliffs are a prime habitat for nesting Golden Eagles and rare Bearded Vultures (Lammergeier), as well as wild colonies of Alpine Ibex and chamois.
In addition, this area is home to the Drachenloch (Dragon's Hole) archaeological complex. High above in the caves, researchers discovered stone-age tools and cave bear bones dating back over 50,000 years, proving that humans and ancient beasts have been negotiating these formidable peaks since the Paleolithic era.
PART 2: SUMMITING THE PASS & REFUELING IN THE ALPS
As you push up the valley, the path moves through pristine meadows that explode with a vibrant blanket of alpine flora (like gentians, primulas, and wild heather) if you hike during early summer. Before you reach the actual pass plateau, you will pass Restaurant Eggwald in Oberkunkels (~1,148m). It boasts a fantastic garden terrace and serves as a wonderful initial rest stop or an excellent crowd-alternative on busy weekend afternoons.
Continuing past Eggwald, the valley dramatically opens up into a jaw-dropping mountain arena at the high plateau summit of the Kunkels Pass (1,357m-1,493m). Look straight up to the southwest to gaze at the majestic Ringelspitz (Piz Barghias), which at 3,247m is the highest peak in the Canton of St. Gallen.
You are standing within the UNESCO Tectonic Arena Sardona, where you can visibly trace the Glarus Thrust (Glarner Hauptueberschiebung)-a geological fault line where older rock layers were violently pushed over younger rock formations. For a full alpine meal, pull up a chair at the historic Berggasthaus Ueberuf at the pass summit. Don't forget to peer into the municipality-run showroom next door; they have a high-powered telescope set up to inspect mountain climbers tackling the Ringelspitz massif.
SUMMER VARIATION: DETOUR TO THE RINGELSPITZHUETTE SAC
If you are hiking during the peak of summer, when the upper trails are clear of deep snow, you can tackle an exhilarating high-alpine detour before continuing down the pass. From the Kunkels Pass summit, look for the mountain hiking trail signs directing you steeply up toward the Ringelspitzhuette SAC. Passing through the Grossalp, this challenging T3 climb adds about 2 hours and roughly +650 vertical meters (2,130 ft) to your journey, taking you up to an elevation of 2,000 meters.
Perched on the south-facing slopes directly beneath the mighty Ringelspitz massif, this cozy Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) hut offers unparalleled, birds-eye vistas expanding across the Glarus Alps and far down into the Rhine Valley. After a quick break, you can head back down to the pass to rejoin the main route.
PART 3: THE WWI CLIFFSIDE TUNNEL & THE LANDSLIDE VIEW
After soaking in the pass views (or returning from the upper hut), follow the winding gravel mountain road just a short distance down the southern descent. This brings you to a shared corridor beloved by local mountain cyclists conquering the steep, switchback pass road. Because motorized vehicles are strictly banned over the pass without a paid digital day-permit purchased via SMS, the road remains beautifully quiet and safe.
First, you'll encounter the incredible historic rock tunnel. Blasted directly into a sheer, vertical cliff face by the Swiss military during World War I, this narrow panoramic tunnel features massive open-window cutouts offering dramatic, dizzying aerial views of the sheer drop-off below. As you exit the tunnel and follow the descent road, pause and look back. Looming further down over the pass road is the massive, stark Tamins landslide zone (Taminserbergsturz) slicing down the rugged mountainside.
If you stand beneath it, you can see the colossal collapse niche where prehistoric mountainsides gave way, a dramatic reminder of the raw, volatile power of alpine geology. Watching local cyclists fly past down this steep grade gives you a real sense of scale against the mountains.
PART 4: STEPPING ON ROMAN STONES (OR PLAY IT SAFE IN THE WET)
After enjoying the valley views, head back up slightly to connect with the historic Roman mule track (Saumweg). Long before the road existed, this rugged path was a vital economic artery. When the main Rhine valley flooded and became impassable, Roman soldiers, traders, and smugglers used this precise mountain track to bypass high valley tolls.
WEATHER SAFETY NOTE:
If it starts raining, skip the mule track. The ancient, polished stone steps become incredibly slick and treacherous when wet. On rainy days, it is much safer to stay on the paved descent road used by the cyclists to navigate your way down to the tree line…
Before heading into the village, take a nature detour by veering onto the Eichwald Tamins Nature Trail (Naturlehrpfad Eichwald). This pristine, protected oak forest is an area of national environmental importance.
The Trail: A gentle loop features 19 interactive thematic panels detailing the unique local ecosystems, diverse plant life, and ancient woodland habitats.
The History: The massive oak trees date back centuries to the Middle Ages, when they were strictly protected from deforestation because their acorns were incredibly valuable for fattening local livestock.
The Rest Stop: If you packed snacks, the forest opens up at the beautiful Benis Boden area, which features an idyllic, designated picnic spot with a public fire pit.
PART 5: HIDDEN BRIDGES, THE MIGHTY RHINE & BEYOND
Exiting the shade of the Eichwald forest, you'll step into the picturesque village of Tamins. Your eyes will be drawn immediately to the historic Evangelisch-reformierte Kirche Tamins (the Evangelical Reformed Church of Tamins). Perched proudly on an elevated hill, this iconic landmark holds deep historical significance; originally rebuilt in 1492, it was famously the only major building to survive a devastating fire when invading French troops destroyed the rest of the village in 1799. The peaceful churchyard offers a stunning vantage point over the valley floor, where you can spot the distant peaks of Piz Beverin and Toedi framing the horizon on a clear day.
From the churchyard, follow the path down out of the village toward the water into the historic hamlet of Reichenau. This brings you to Schloss Reichenau (Reichenau Castle), a stately 17th-century structure. During the French Revolution, the castle became a progressive boarding school where a young French exile taught under a pseudonym-the man who would later become Louis Philippe I, the last King of France. Today, the castle is lovingly preserved as a cultural hub and a premium boutique winery by the von Tscharner family.
Just outside the castle walls, you will encounter the final architectural marvel of the trek: the majestic bridges spanning the Rhine River:
The Hidden Footpaths: Instead of walking alongside traffic, hikers get to use spectacular pedestrian walkways ingeniously suspended directly underneath the massive road and railway bridges. Walking on these lower tiers gives you a sheltered, dramatic birds-eye view right over the water.
The Confluence: From this unique under-bridge vantage point, look straight down at the magnificent confluence of the Anterior and Posterior Rhine (Vorderrhein & Hinterrhein). You can clearly watch the two distinct river currents-one an emerald green, the other a milky alpine grey-collide and merge into one massive waterway.
Riverbank Picnic Spots: In this area, the trails step down right to the edge of the water. The surrounding riverbanks are incredibly accessible, offering wide, pebble-strewn shores and some grassy banks that are absolutely perfect for an end-of-hike picnic or a relaxing foot-soak in the crisp alpine water.
The Swiss Grand Canyon Starts Here!
Before you hop on the train, take note of the trail markers branching off into the woods nearby. Reichenau marks the official western gateway to the world-renowned Ruinaulta (the Swiss Rhine Gorge) hiking area. Formed by a monumental rockslide nearly 10,000 years ago, this spectacular canyon features 300m high white limestone cliffs plunging into rushing whitewater rapids - see my other articles…
Just a short stroll up from the banks, your journey comes to an end at the Reichenau-Tamins train station, where you can hop on a smooth ride home via Chur, looking back up at the massive peaks you just conquered…
This route was hiked by the author a few times & seasons, including on the 7th of April 2018. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions…
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