Obersaxen WW2 B-17 Crash Site: Hiking in History to Inneralp
High above the pristine, sun-drenched plateau of Obersaxen in the Swiss canton of Graubunden, the dramatic serenity of the Swiss Alps hides a startling scar from World War II. While Switzerland famously maintained its neutrality throughout the conflict, its airspace was a tense battleground on both sides.
On July 19th, 1944, the violent realities of the war slammed directly into the quiet peaks. Today, a challenging alpine hiking route allows history buffs and outdoor enthusiasts to retrace the final flight path of the Boeing B-17G "Champagne Girl", visiting the remote mountainside where its journey ended, before looping back down through the postcard-perfect meadows of Inneralp.
The History: Minutes from Disaster
The story of the "Champagne Girl" - a heavy bomber assigned to the 323rd Bomb Squadron, 91st Bomb Group - is a tale of extraordinary luck and narrow escapes. On that fateful July morning, the aircraft was part of a massive Allied bombing run targeting Lechfeld, Germany. Cruising in tight formation through heavy cloud cover over the border region, disaster struck. "Champagne Girl" suffered a catastrophic mid-air collision with another B-17 named "Bunky".
The impact sliced "Bunky" in half, sending it plummeting to the ground with the loss of the entire crew. "Champagne Girl" survived the initial impact but plunged into a violent tailspin. Fights against extreme G-forces by Pilot 1st Lt. Cyril J. Braund and Co-Pilot 2nd Lt. John Sykes miraculously leveled the heavy bomber just long enough for all 9 crew members to bail out into the skies over eastern Switzerland.
The empty, ghost-flown bomber continued soaring on autopilot until it ultimately crashed into a rugged mountain ridge above Obersaxen. Meanwhile, the entire crew parachuted safely into Swiss territory, where they were detained, interned in alpine resort towns like Davos & Wengen, and eventually repatriated after the war in 1945.
A Landscape of Medieval Migration: The Walser "Linguistic Island"
As you lace up your boots in Obersaxen, you aren't just walking into a scenic landscape, you are stepping into a centuries-old cultural anomaly. Obersaxen is famously known as a "Walser Island - a German-speaking community isolated in a vast sea of Romansh.
Useful when trying to locate the site...
Originally, the region (referred to in 8th-century church documents as Supersaxa, meaning "above the stones") was entirely Romansh. However, in the 13th century, a fierce, highly adapted group of mountain farmers known as the Walser migrated east from the Canton of Valais.
The powerful monks of the nearby Disentis Abbey granted permission to these settlers of the high, rugged plateau. In exchange for clearing the harsh wilderness, the Walser were given special legal freedoms and the right to self-govern.
Because they stayed on this high terrace and kept their distinct Highest Alemannic German dialect, the 28 scattered farm clusters (Fraktionen) that make up Obersaxen (incl. Inneralp) remain fiercely German-speaking to this day. Walk just a short distance down into the valley floor, however, and the language instantly shifts back to Romansh.
The Hike: Obersaxen to the Crash Site & Inneralp
This strenuous but rewarding circuit pairs sobering WW2 history with panoramic views of the Surselva Valley, unique local architecture, and unforgettable alpine wildlife encounters:
Distance: 15.5 km (9.6 miles)
Elevation Gain/Loss: +/- 850 meters (2,788 feet)
Duration: 5-6+ hours (depending on pace and time spent exploring)
Difficulty: Strenuous/Moderate (Swiss T2+ alpine scale; requires some stamina)
Best Season: June to October (Snow-free months)
Step 1: The Ascent from Obersaxen
The trail kicks off in the traditional Walser village of Obersaxen. Follow the marked yellow hiking signs pointing upwards toward the alpine pastures. The initial leg winds through fragrant pine forests and wide-open green meadows ringing with the chime of Swiss cowbells. As you climb, look back to absorb the expanding views of the anterior Rhine valley below.
Step 2: Entering the Eagle's Kingdom
As you push past the tree line into the upper alpine zone (approaching roughly 2,000 m), the terrain shifts from soft grass to rugged scree and isolated rocky slopes.
Keep your eyes open, not just on the ground, but in the air. This remote, quiet altitude is the kingdom of the Golden Eagle (Steinadler). Lucky hikers occasionally startle these apex predators resting near the rocky fields. Watching a mature eagle take flight, spread its massive 2.3-meter (7.5-foot) wingspan, and lazily circle the mountain thermals overhead is an unforgettable highlight of the trek - if you're lucky like we were…
Step 3: Unearthing the Hidden Crash Site
The actual crash site is unmarked, sitting in a quiet area near a small, active farm. Because Swiss military cleanup crews removed the bulk of the heavy fuselage immediately after the war, and decades of shifting soil, rockslides, and heavy winters have buried the remaining parts of the aircraft, most people would walk straight past it without knowing it was there...
However, if you explore a concentrated area of the rough hillside, the fractured outline of the wartime giant makes itself known. Hidden right in the pasture grass is a small debris field, for example:
Step 4: The Living Alpine Farmstead
Near the farm site, you will pass a fascinating piece of timeless Swiss agricultural engineering: a traditional Erdkeller (earth cellar) or Milchkeller. Looking from behind like a simple, grass-covered mound, it features a low stone front with an open entrance door.
For generations, farmers have used these naturally insulated, subterranean stone rooms to keep fresh milk and aging wheels of alpine cheese perfectly chilled without electricity.
Step 5: Down the River to Inneralp
Leaving the crash site, the trail contours across the mountain and follows the river dropping down toward Inneralp. Along this stretch, you will encounter a small concrete weir and reservoir structure (Wasserfassung). This local water intake regulates stream flow, filtering out high-altitude silt to feed clean water to the livestock troughs below and diverting a portion into underground pipes to generate clean micro-hydroelectricity for the valley.
From here, you enter the high alpine pastures of Inneralp, a testament to nearly a millennium of strictly regulated shared-farming systems (Alpwirtschaft). The stunning, sun-blackened timber barns (Maiensasse) you see scattered across the meadows represent a centuries-old seasonal migration cycle, where farmers moved their cattle vertically down to the intermediate pastures in autumn and up to these high fields for peak summer months.
Step 6: Optional Loop Back
From the quiet settlement of Inneralp, a gentle farm track completes the circle, bringing you back down to your starting point in Obersaxen for a well-deserved mountain feast. Alternatively, you can just get the bus back to Ilanz from here…
Scenic Landmarks Along the Route
Ruinaulta (Rhine Gorge) Panorama: During the higher sections of the ascent, looking north-east reveals distant, sweeping views of the "Swiss Grand Canyon." This massive gorge features soaring white limestone cliffs carved out by the Anterior Rhine.
Piz Mundaun and the Signina Range: The jagged, snow-dusted peaks of the Signina mountain range flank the horizon, providing a dramatic backdrop that contrasts beautifully with the soft green pastures below.
Obersaxen Church Towers: Looking back down toward the plateau, the distinct spires of the historic local churches stand out against the valley floor, serving as a visual anchor for your starting/ending points.
I will be covering some of these topics as well as the many local castles and ruins in future hiking articles…
Post-Hike Alpine Feast: What to Eat
After spending hours on the mountain tracking history, the traditional gasthofs (inns) and alpine huts in Obersaxen and Inneralp offer the perfect setting to recharge. The regional cuisine of Graubunden is hearty, comforting, and satisfying:
Capuns: This is the ultimate culinary specialty of the canton.
Maluns: A classic mountain farmer dish made from grated potatoes slow-fried in butter with a bit of flour until they form golden, crispy crumbs.
Nusstorte: End your meal with a slice of the famous local walnut tart.
Trailhead Tips
Footwear & Fitness: Given the distance and steep climb, robust hiking boots with excellent ankle support are essential.
Navigation: Because the crash site near the farm is unmarked and partly hidden, downloading an offline GPS trail map &/or photographs before you leave is essential to avoid disappointment.
Respect the History: If you encounter any historic debris on the mountain, please leave it exactly where it lies so future hikers can experience the history as well…
This route was hiked by the Author on the 20th of July 2024. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions...
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