Hiking the Swiss National Park: Complete Ofenpass to Munt la Schera Guide
Tucked away in the eastern corner of Graubunden, the Swiss National Park (Schweizerischer Nationalpark, SNP) is Switzerland's oldest nature sanctuary and its only strict wilderness zone. Because human intervention is banned and the environment is left entirely untouched outside of a few strictly managed paths, the park remains extraordinarily wild, raw, & pristine - unquestionably one of the most breathtaking natural landscapes in all of Switzerland.
This 20 km circuit links weathered dolomite pinnacles, high alpine peat bogs, historic mountain inns, vulture reintroduction sites, and panoramic border vistas across to the Italian Alps.
Route at a Glance
Distance: c 20 km (including detour, pass loop, and summit trail)
Elevation Gain/Loss: +950 m/-1,120m
Duration: 7.5 to 8.5 hours (including coffee/lunch stops, not photos)
Trail Difficulty: SAC Grade T2 (Technically straightforward on well-marked paths, but physically demanding with strong endurance & thorough mountain preparation)
Highest Altitude: Munt la Schera summit (2,587 m)
Start/Finish: Ofenpass / Susom Give (P10) to Champloench (P1)
Public Transport: Rhaetian Railway (RhB) to Zernez, connecting directly to PostAuto Bus Line 811 (Zernez - Ofenpass - Val Mustair)
Access & Parking: To minimize the ecological impact, park authorities strongly encourage visitors to arrive on foot, by bicycle, or via public transport. Parking spaces along the Ofenpass road are strictly limited and fill up rapidly during peak season.
Gateway to the Wilderness: Zernez & the Visitor Center
The village of Zernez serves as the official gateway to the Swiss National Park. Connected via the scenic Rhaetian Railway (RhB), Zernez is where your journey into the park should ideally begin. Before heading up the pass, make a point to visit the SNP Visitor Center (Nationalparkzentrum Zernez). Housed in a striking modern building near the center of town, it features multiple floors of state-of-the-art interactive exhibitions covering the park's flora, fauna, geology, and conservation history. Zernez itself is a lovely town - see my other articles on this.
Highlights include a large 3D terrain model of the entire park, wilderness audio-visual rooms, temporary natural history exhibits, and a well-stocked shop for topographical maps and field guides. Park rangers at the info. desk provide up-to-the-minute trail advice, recent wildlife sighting locations, and weather forecasts, etc.
Ranger-Led Guided Excursions: For those seeking deeper insights into the park's ecosystem, official rangers and certified park guides lead regular public excursions from June to Oct. Special thematic walks cover topics like the Bearded Vulture reintroduction in Val Stabelchod, alpine geology, and the autumn red deer rut (Hirschbrunft) - with English-speaking guides available on request.
From Zernez railway station, the PostAuto Bus Line 811 provides seamless, hourly connections right into the park. The bus services all the key trailheads along the Ofenpass road, including Champloench (P1), Hotel Il Fuorn (P6), and the Susom Give pass (P10).
Connecting Routes and Multi-Day Wilderness Trekking
While this itinerary focuses on a combination of the park's most popular marked trails along its length, the network extends across 80 km of strictly regulated paths that intersect at key junctions along the way. From Jufplaun and Munt la Schera, ambitious hikers can link into neighboring routes heading toward Margunet, Alp Buffalora, or deeper into the central park interior.
Because wild camping, bivouacking, and campervans are strictly forbidden everywhere within the reserve, multi-day trekking requires careful planning:
The Park's Sole Overnight Refuge (Chamanna Cluozza):
Tucked away in the wild, uninhabited gorge of Val Cluozza lies Chamanna Cluozza (Cluozza Hut) the only mountain hut located directly inside the boundaries of the SNP. Built in 1910, this historic log cabin offers simple, rustic dormitory lodging and hearty hot meals. Connecting the Ofenpass trails to Val Cluozza via high passes (like Murter) allows you to turn a day hike into an extraordinary multi-day wilderness adventure.
Booking Ahead: Because Chamanna Cluozza is the only overnight option deep in the park, places are severely limited and must be reserved well in advance via the National Park website (nationalpark.ch).
Outside of Cluozza Hut, overnight stays are only permitted at official hotels situated along the pass road enclaves (such as Hotel Il Fuorn or Susom Give).
Important Trail Preparations and Self-Sufficiency Warning
While the path is rated T2 (meaning paths are clear and technical difficulty is modest), do not underestimate this route. A 20 km day hike with nearly 1,000 m of vertical climbing across high-altitude terrain requires solid physical fitness and proper preparation. Once you step onto the mountain trail, you enter a true wilderness corridor:
Lingering Snow and Ice: Reaching an altitude of 2,587 m on Munt la Schera, high sections of the route can hold lingering snowfields and icy patches during early summer (June to early July) and late autumn (Oct). Always check the path status on the official SNP website before setting out to verify which trails are open & safe.
No Facilities on the Route: Outside of the pass (Susom Give), the valley restaurant at Il Fuorn, and the distant Chamanna Cluozza, there are no mountain huts, shelters, food kiosks, or potable water points anywhere along the trail network...
Hydration in Karst Terrain: Because limestone & dolomite terrain swallows surface water into subterranean fissures, streams on Munt la Schera and Jufplaun can be sparse or seasonal. Carry at least 3 liters of water per person from the start.
Complete Self-Sufficiency: You must carry all necessary supplies for a long alpine day including ample drinking water, high-energy food/snacks, sun protection, a first aid kit, and layered warm/waterproof clothing for sudden mountain weather changes.
Strict Leave-No-Trace: There are no trash bins on the trail. Everything you bring into the park including food wrappers, fruit peels, tissues, etc. must be packed out with you. Leaving any waste behind is strictly prohibited and carries heavy fines.
A Century of Conservation: History of the Swiss National Park
The Swiss National Park was officially founded on August 1, 1914 (Swiss National Day), making it the oldest national park in both the Alps and Central Europe. At the turn of the 20th century, rapid industrialization, deforestation, and unbridled hunting were severely depleting Switzerland's wild landscapes. Spearheaded by visionary naturalists and academics notably Paul Sarasin & Steivan Brunies a movement took root to create a sanctuary where human influence would be entirely excluded. Joined by botanist Carl Schroeter and supported by the newly formed Swiss League for the Protection of Nature (now Pro Natura), the pioneers leased land from local communes near the Ofenpass and Val Cluozza.
Unlike the American national park model of the era, which prioritized tourism and public recreation, the Swiss pioneers conceived the park as a grand experiment in total wilderness preservation. The goal was to let nature revert completely to its natural, primordial state.
In 1916, the Swiss Academy of Sciences established a permanent scientific commission (FOK-SNP), turning the park into a living open-air laboratory that has been continuously monitored for over a century. Today, spanning over 170 Km2, it forms the core of the UNESCO Biosfera Engiadina Val Mustair and stands as Switzerland's highest-status nature reserve.
Step-by-Step Route Narrative
1. Morning Warm-Up and Pass Coffee
Your journey begins at the Susom Give pass (2,149 m) on the Ofenpass. Before setting off on the main traverse, take the short, steep spur trail heading south directly up to the communications transmission tower (around 2,250 m). This quick +100 m warm-up gets the legs moving and opens up immediate views down the Val Mustair.
Descend back to the pass, visit the bear statue across the road, and take a seat on the sun terrace at Hotel Susom-Give for a hot coffee, soaking in the early morning light spilling across the pass before embarking on the main trail...
2. Dolomite Spires & Climbing Il Jalet
Leaving the pass behind, pick up the trail that loops around the back (N/NE flank) to approach Il Jalet from the rear. The path weaves through weathered dolomite spires and striking, jagged limestone rock formations this is why we don’t just go up over the summit in front .
A short, energetic scramble brings you to the sharp lookout peak of Il Jalet (2,392 m), offering a 360-degree panorama of the surrounding limestone crags and deep pine-filled ravines.
3. Val Murtarol and the Jufplaun Plateau
From Il Jalet, descend into the tranquil trough of Val Murtarol and cross the mountain stream (Aua da Murtarol). The trail skirts beneath the northern limestone flanks of Doss da las Plattas (2,254 m), passing under the shade of old-growth stone pine (Arven) clusters.
Soon, the forest opens onto the expansive Jufplaun plateau (Plan Jufplaun). This rare, high-altitude moorland features winding streams and delicate peat bogs, providing a flat, easy-going stretch with wide-open skies before you begin climbing toward Munt la Schera.
4. Munt la Schera Summit Loop & Lago di Livigno
Cross into the strict boundaries of the Swiss National Park and begin ascending the grassy ridges of Munt la Schera (2,587 m). Smoothly rounded by Ice Age glaciers, this broad summit plateau offers unobstructed views in every direction.
As you trace the southern rim of the summit loop, the ground drops off dramatically toward the Italian border, exposing a sudden, breathtaking view down to the turquoise reservoir of Lago di Livigno tucked far below in the valley.
5. Val Stabelchod & a Food Stop at Hotel Il Fuorn
Continuing the loop, descend toward Val Stabelchod the historic valley where the Bearded Vulture (Laemmergeier) was re-introduced in 1991. Keep an eye on the thermals above the rock faces for large soaring raptors.
Follow the trail down through pine and larch forests to the valley floor, arriving at Hotel Parc Naziunal Il Fuorn. Operating as an alpine tavern and mule station since 1489, it is the premier culinary stop along the pass.
6. Champloench Nature Trail to Bus Stop P1
To complete the route, cross the road to join the Champloench nature trail (Senda da Natur). Following the historic mule track through lush pastures where marmots and red deer are frequently spotted, the path ends directly at the Champloench (P1) PostAuto bus stop for your connection back up to the pass or down to Zernez railway station.
Deep Dive: The Magic of Champloench
Beyond serving as a scenic finale to the traverse, the Champloench nature trail holds several unique historical, geological, and ecological treasures:
Ancient Mule and Salt Route (Saumerweg): Long before the modern Ofenpass road was engineered, this path formed part of an essential alpine trade artery. For centuries, pack-mule trains (Saumer) hauled South Tyrolean wine, grain, and precious salt up from Val Mustair over the pass and into the Engadin.
Romansh Name Origin: The name Champloench stems from the regional Romansh dialect (Camp long), translating literally to "Long Field." It refers to the elongated, high-pasture clearing carved into the dense larch and stone pine forests.
Interactive "iNatur" Audio Trail: The SNP designated Champloench as an interactive educational path. Using the official Swiss National Park app, hikers can listen to location-based audio stations, where forest animals and park guardians narrate stories explaining local ecosystems, timber industry history & wildlife habits.
Prime Autumn Deer Rutting Zone (Hirschbrunft): In late Sept. and early October, the open pastures of Champloench and surrounding forest margins become a prime amphitheater for the red deer rut. Stags gather here to compete for harems, and their deep, echoing roars reverberate across the valley throughout early morning and dusk. See my other article on this topic…
Panoramic Mountain Peaks Visible on This Route
This high-alpine traverse provides exceptional vistas across three distinct mountain ranges:
Ortler Massif: Looking east from the communications tower, Susom Give, and Il Jalet, the dominant feature on the horizon is the massive, ice-capped pyramid of the Ortler (3,905 m) in South Tyrol, standing high above the head of the Val Mustair.
Piz Daint & Local Dolomites: Framing the south side of the Ofenpass road is Piz Daint (2,968 m) and its neighboring peak Piz Buffalora (2,630 m), characterized by dark scree slopes and rugged limestone towers.
Bernina Alps: From the summit plateau of Munt la Schera and the southern view looking over Lago di Livigno, you get a dramatic panorama of the glaciated high peaks of the Bernina Range, including Piz Bernina (4,049 m, the highest peak in the Eastern Alps), Piz Palu (3,900 m), and Piz Roseg (3,937 m).
Piz Quattervals: Looking north across the interior of the National Park, you can spot Piz Quattervals (3,165 m), the highest peak situated entirely within the boundaries of the SNP.
Swiss National Park Strict Regulations & Visitor Access
Because the route traverses a Category Ia Strict Nature Reserve, regulations are rigorously enforced by park rangers to maintain its untouched state:
Stay Strictly on Marked Footpaths: Stepping off the marked path (even by a few paces to sit down, rest, or take a photo) is illegal to protect fragile alpine topsoil and nesting wildlife.
No Dogs Allowed: Dogs are strictly prohibited throughout the park, even on a leash or carried in a carrier.
Leave Everything Intact: Do not pick flowers (esp. Edelweiss), collect rocks, gather mushrooms, or remove fallen wood, antlers, or fossils.
No Wild Camping, Fires, or Bivouacking: Overnight stays, camping, and open fires are strictly forbidden (with Chamanna Cluozza being the single designated mountain hut exception inside the park).
No Swimming or Water Entry: Entering streams, rivers, or alpine lakes is also prohibited.
Best Times of Year to Visit
July to August (Peak Summer): High trails are generally snow-free, alpine meadows are in full bloom, and wildlife activity around Munt la Schera and Val Stabelchod is at its peak.
Sept. to Mid-October (Golden Larch Season): Early autumn delivers crystal-clear mountain air, ideal hiking temperatures, and glowing golden larch forests around Hotel Il Fuorn and Champloench, accompanied by the echo of the red deer rut across the valleys. Be aware of early-season snowfall at higher elevations...
Strict Winter Closure: The entire park is completely closed throughout the winter months (typically from mid-Nov. to May). No winter sports, snowshoeing, ski touring, or winter hiking are permitted. This sanctuary status gives wildlife uninterrupted peace during the harshest, most vulnerable survival period of the year.
Flora and Fauna Highlights
Wildlife (Fauna):
Bearded Vulture (Laemmergeier): With a wingspan reaching nearly 3 m, Europe's largest bird of prey can regularly be seen soaring above Val Stabelchod & the crags of Munt la Schera.
Golden Eagle (Steinadler): Several breeding pairs nest in the steep limestone cliffs throughout the park.
European Adder/Viper (Vipera berus): The warm, south-facing limestone stone slabs on Munt la Schera are prime sunbathing spots for these zig-zag patterned adders. Maintain path discipline and watch your step around sunny rock outcrops. I was lucky enough to see one.
Red Deer and Marmots: Large herds of red deer graze on the Jufplaun and Champloench pastures, while marmots call back and forth across the scree slopes.
Plant Life (Flora):
Edelweiss and Alpine Violets (Viola calcarata): The limestone-rich soils on the summit loop host carpets of velvety white Edelweiss and vivid purple alpine violets during mid-summer. And there are no cows to eat them…
Swiss Stone Pine (Arve): The lower forest canopy features ancient Pinus cembra, whose seeds are planted almost exclusively by the Eurasian Nutcracker.
Peat-Bog Flora: The wetlands of Jufplaun showcase fluffy white tufts of cotton grass (Eriophorum) alongside arctic-alpine mosses.
Practical Insider Tips
Bring Optics: Because leaving paths to get closer to animals is strictly forbidden, a pair of lightweight binoculars &/or a telephoto lens is essential for spotting Bearded Vultures on distant cliffs or observing deer on Jufplaun. I use a monocular.
SwissTopo App & Offline Maps: While trails are thoroughly marked with yellow signs and red-white-red SAC paint blazes, cell reception drops in deep valleys like Val Murtarol. Downloading the free SwissTopo app with offline maps saved beforehand lets you track your location on official 1:25,000 Swiss topographical maps without mobile data.
Park Rangers: Uniformed rangers patrol the trail network. While they hold official authority to fine rule violations on the spot, they are also exceptionally helpful. Many carry high-powered spotting scopes and will gladly point out distant wildlife.
Local Language Context: Place names along the route (Susom Give, Aua da Murtarol, Doss da las Plattas, Plan Jufplaun, Senda da Natur) are in Vallader, the regional Romansh dialect of the Lower Engadin and Val Mustair.
This hike and similar ones have been made in and around the SNP from 2017-25, but esp. on 7th of August 2021. See my other articles on hiking in this area. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions...
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