Into the White: A Snowshoe Hike to the "Matterhorn of Grisons"
If you are chasing the perfect Swiss winter wonderland, skip the crowded mega-resorts and head deep into the Valsertal. Tucked away in the Grisons Alps lies a snowshoe trail that ticks every box: a soaring gondola ride, a historic cliffside chapel, an alpine reservoir, and front-row seats to some of the most dramatic snowy mountain architecture in Switzerland.
Grab your snowshoes and your camera - this is the ultimate winter loop from Vals to the Zervreilasee via Gadastatt, returning through the thrilling historic road tunnels…
Trip Overview
Distance: ~19.5 km (Loop including gondola ride and chapel detour) +400m vertical
Time: ~5-6 hours (total) - note that snowshoes can slow you down, but spikes may also work in places…
Key Peaks: Zervreilahorn, Piz Aul, Piz Tomül, Fanellahorn, Dachberg, etc.
What to Pack: Snowshoes, trekking poles with snow baskets, layered winter gear, sunglasses (the glare off the reservoir is intense!), drinks and a good camera.
Stage 1: The Floating Start to Gadastatt
Your journey begins with a mechanical ascent. Stepping into the gondola at the base station in Vals, you ride quickly up through the crisp morning air, watching the timber rooftops of the village shrink below you.
Stepping off at the Gadastatt Mountain Station (1,807 m), the horizon immediaely expands. To the north, the jagged crests of the Piz Tomül (2,954 m) and Piz Fess (2,880 m) slice into the sky, guarding the pass over to the Safiental. The snow hre is pristine, muffled, and gleaming under the morning sun. Strap on your snowshoes; the Panoramaweg awaits…
Where to Fuel Up
Restaurant Gadastatt: Before you take your first stride into the snow, grab a warm drink or a hearty breakfast at the Bergrestaurant Gadastatt. Situated at the mountain station, this cozy alpine lodge features a large sun terrace with panoramic views of the northern peak chains. It's the perfect place to load up on carbs with a plate of Älplermagronen (Swiss alpine macaroni) before hitting the trail.
Stage 2: The Panoramaweg and the Giants of the Skyline
Setting off from Gadastatt, follow the undulating ridge line of the Panoramaweg. The groomed trail gently rolls across snow-blanketed alpine pastures right below the slopes of the Dachberg (2,852 m).
As you head south, look across the deep trench of the valley. The peaks of the Valsertal chain flank your left. You will easily spot the massive, broad shoulder of Piz Seranastga (2,874 m) and the sharp, white tooth of Piz Aul (3,121 m) piercing the clouds. Every step forward changes the geometry of these massive peaks, offering a shifting kaleidoscope of ice, snow and rock.
Tracks in the Powder: Winter Wildlife Encounters
Because the trail passes through quiet, snow-covered moorlands, keep your eyes trained on the treeline and the open fields. You are hiking through the home of resilient alpine wildlife:
Chamois & Ibex: Scan the steep, windswept rock faces of the Dachberg and the surrounding ridges. Chamois (Gämse) and massive Alpine Ibex (Steinbock) frequently navigate these cliffs where the wind blows the snow away, exposing patches of dry grass.
Snow Owls & Ptarmigans: Look out for a sudden flash of white against the rocks. The rock ptarmigan (Schneehuhn) is a master of winter camouflage, changing its feathers to pure white.
Note: Winter is a battle for survival for these animals. Always stay on the marked winter trails to avoid startling them, as running through deep snow costs them precious energy.
Stage 3: The Revelation at Frunt
After roughly 5 km of pristine hiking, the terrain thins out, and you arrive at the edge of the world: the historic hamlet of Frunt (1,990 m). Perched precariously on a sheer rocky cliffside sits the tiny, whitewashed St. Anna Chapel, built in 1754. Step up to the ledge next to the chapel, and prepare to have your breath taken away.
Directly below you lies the massive, frozen expanse of the Zervreila Reservoir, locked in winter ice (depending on the time of year). But the true showstopper rises directly across the water: the magnificent Zervreilahorn (2,820 m).
Rising like a lone, sharp, symmetrical pyramid of dark rock and white ice, it is famously known as the "Matterhorn of the Grisons." Its sheer, geometric north face commands the entire landscape. Flanking it in the far distance are the heavily glaciated peaks of the Güferhorn (3,379 m) and the Fanellahorn (3,124 m), forming a massive, high-alpine amphitheater of pure white.
Stage 4: Crossing the Dam & Climbing to "Zervreilerchappeli"
From the chapel at Frunt, follow the snowshoe trail as it makes a short, exhilaratingly steep, zigzag descent down to the floor of the valley. You will walk directly onto the massive Zervreila Dam. Walking across this 151-meter-high curved concrete wall feels like traversing an arctic fortress.
Once across the dam, don’t unstrap your snowshoes just yet! Instead of heading straight to the restaurant, turn onto the gently ascending trail heading S.E. above the reservoir. This extra 40-min winter detour climbs gently to a sun-drenched alpine terrace at 1,985 m, home to the Kapelle St. Bartholomäus - affectionately known by locals as the "Zervreilerchappeli.”
Built in 1959, this single-room chapel serves as a beautiful monument to the old village church that was submerged beneath the waters of the reservoir. Designed with a wedge shape on its mountain side to protect it from avalanches, it houses historical artifacts saved from the deep, including two bells and a baroque altar from 1730 crafted by Johann Ritz.
Standing on this terrace offers a postcard panoramic vista directly overlooking the dam wall and the razor-sharp profile of the Zervreilahorn. When you're done taking in the history and views, enjoy a fun, gravity-fueled slide or trek down the dedicated, traffic-free sledding path back down to the restaurant area.
Note: I will write more about the reservoir and this area in my blog about a summertime hike around the lake to the Zervreilahorn.
The Halfway Feast: Restaurant Zervreila
Nestled right at the end of the dam, Restaurant Zervreila is a legendary pitstop for snowshoers, winter hikers, and ski tourers alike. Step out of the cold into their wood-paneled Stübli dining room, or claim a spot on the sun deck.
The menu is packed with comforting Grisons classics. Try their house-made Bündner Gerstensuppe (traditional Grisons barley soup), which is rich, smoky, and guaranteed to thaw you out. For a larger appetites, they serve fantastic game dishes (Wild), regional cheese fondues, and fresh fruit tarts.
Conveniently, this is also where you pick up your rental wooden sled for the next stage of your journey - if you want to…
Stage 5: The Tunnel Run Back to Vals
The journey back to Vals is an 8 km alpine playground, and you have a choice to make: a scenic winter hike, catching the local Zervreila-Shuttle, or - if the snow conditions are just right - renting a wooden sled directly from the restaurant. You will follow the Zervreilastrasse, but instead of staying on the modern asphalt road, winter adventurers branch off onto the snow-covered Old Zervreila Road.
This route takes you right through the heart of the mountain via historic, hand-hewn stone tunnels. In the winter, these dark passages are specially lined with "snow carpets"—packed layers of snow that allow you to slide or trek right through the heart of the rock.
Emerging from the tunnels, you track through the dramatic Rotabärg Gorge, watching the frozen waterfalls cling to the canyon walls as the trail gently guides you all the way back into the warm, steaming thermal village of Vals.
The Finish Line: Dining Back in Vals
Once in Vals, you have a wealth of distinct dining choices to end your day:
For Alpine Cozy: Head to Gasthaus Piz Aul. Their rustic restaurant serves fantastic stone-baked pizzas, homemade pastas, and regional meat platters in a very relaxed, friendly environment.
For Architectural Fine Dining: If you are winding down at the world-famous 7132 Thermal Baths, treat yourself to 7132 Silver (for multi-course gourmet innovation) or the 7132 Glenner, which offers elevated, contemporary twists on traditional Swiss alpine dishes.
This route was hiked by the Author on the 25th February 2024. Contact me by email for more photos or to ask questions.
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