Zurich to Mittelallalin: Facing the Fee Glacier & 4,000m Mountain Peaks
My journey in 2019 took me from the bustling platforms of Zurich straight into the heart of the glacial wilderness: Saas-Fee and the legendary Mittelallalin viewpoint. It was a trip filled with world records, jaw-dropping ice giants, and a first-hand lesson in respecting the invisible physics of high-altitude travel.
Part 1: Scenic Travel from Zurich to Saas-Fee
The journey begins with a Swiss travel experience at its absolute finest. Leaving Zurich Hauptbahnhof, the train cuts smoothly through central Switzerland before plunging through the historic Loetschberg Base Tunnel. When you emerge on the other side into the sunny Valais valley, the landscape has completely transformed.
At Visp, you hop off the train and board the yellow PostBus (Route 511). While many view bus transfers as simple transit, this 50-min ride is a spectacular, front-row sightseeing tour through the rugged Saas Valley (Saastal):
Gates of the Vispa: Leaving Visp, the bus warms up by tracing the roaring waters of the Vispa River. The valley walls immediately shoot up vertically on both sides, adorned with steep, ancient stone-terraced vineyards.
Stalden, the "Bridge Village": A few kilometers in, you reach Stalden, a historic junction town perched over a dramatic canyon where the valley splits into the Mattertal (to Zermatt) and the Saastal. Look out the window to spot a collection of striking historic and modern bridges arching over the deep gorge walls - see my other articles on this…
Thundering Fellbach Waterfall: As the bus snakes deeper into the Saas Valley, it passes through the quiet enclave of Saas-Balen (1,483m). Keep your eyes peeled on the right side to catch a glimpse of the powerful Fellbachfall, a cascading waterfall that barrels directly through the center of the village.
Saas-Grund Basin: The valley then opens up into the wide, sunny basin of Saas-Grund (1,559m). From the valley floor, you get your first majestic views of the jagged peaks framing the high country.
Final Switchback Climb: Leaving Saas-Grund, the bus turns right and performs its grand finale. It tackles a relentless series of sharp, cliff-climbing switchbacks, giving you an aerial, bird's-eye view of the entire valley floor shrinking below as you pull into the car-free village of Saas-Fee (1,800m).
Part 2: Mules, Monks & the World's Highest Subway
To truly appreciate the view at the top, you have to understand the sheer isolation of this region's past. For centuries, the inhabitants of the Saas Valley eeked out a meager farming existence in constant fear of avalanches and roaring glacial torrents.
Tourism didn't arrive here until the mid-19th century. Back then, there were no roads to Saas-Fee. Wealthy early mountaineers and their heavy luggage had to be transported up the mountain tracks on the backs of mules.
However, the winter sports craze took root early, thanks in part to a local priest named Father Johann Joseph Imseng, who famously crafted his own homemade wooden skis to get around the snowbound valley as early as 1849. By 1908, the region boasted the first official ski club in the Upper Valais.
When a road from Saas-Grund was finally completed in 1951, the village made a visionary, radical decision: they banned cars completely. To this day, only tiny, silent electric vehicles hum along the cobblestones of Saas-Fee.
The Engineering Feat of 1984
As skiing grew into a massive global industry, Saas-Fee's local lift operators wanted to give skiers year-round access to the guaranteed snow on the Fee Glacier. But building standard cable car pylons across an active, moving field of thousands-of-years-old ice was a maintenance nightmare.
The solution was wildly ambitious: dig straight through the mountain. On September 1st, 1981, engineers began blasting a 1,749-meter-long tunnel through the solid rock of the Allalinhorn's north flank.
On December 19, 1984, the Metro Alpin officially opened. It caused an international sensation as the highest underground funicular railway (or "subway") on Earth. Having recently undergone a major high-tech cabin modernization, this legendary train still shoots passengers through the mountain's frozen core at a amazing 36 km/h.
Part 3: Blasting Past 3,000-Meters
Saas-Fee is beautiful, but my goal lay much higher. To reach the glaciers, you board the Alpin Express cable car, watching the green larches give way to raw, gray rock and fields of ancient ice. At the Felskinn station (2,989m), you change to the Metro Alpin. The train blasts directly through the dark tunnel, climbing nearly 500 vertical meters to drop you right onto a high glacial ridge at Mittelallalin (3,456 m).
Part 4: A Bite with a View at the Top of the World
Stepping off the underground train at the Mittelallalin station completely transports you. You are instantly flanked by the massive, heavily crevassed Fee Glacier and the blinding white dome of the Allalinhorn (4,027m).
Knowing my time at this extreme altitude would be limited, I immediately headed into the famous Drehrestaurant Allalin the highest revolving restaurant in the world. Sitting right at 3,500 m, the entire building gently rotates 360 degrees on its axis over the course of an hour! Like the Piz Gloria on the Schilthorn just higher…
I grabbed a quick drink and a bite to eat while watching world-class ski teams training out on the glacier runs right outside the glass. The combination of a warm espresso and a classic Swiss snack against a backdrop that stretches all the way to the Italian Alps is nothing short of magical. However, it wasn't long before the thin air caught up with me…
Part 5: Meeting My Match at c.3,500 Meters
As I stepped out to take a few more photos of the glacier, my body gave me an immediate, undeniable reality check: a sudden, pounding altitude headache. Because the mechanical lifts do 100% of the climbing for you in under an hour, your brain doesn't have time to adapt to the thin air. At over 3,400 m, there is roughly 30% less oxygen per breath than at sea level. Bypassing that natural transition triggered a classic case of mild altitude sickness.
The Golden Rule of the Mountains
Recognizing the early warning sign, I immediately put the golden rule of mountaineering into practice: Descend!
I hopped back onto the Metro Alpin and went back down to Felskinn (2,989m). Dropping just 500 vertical meters to below that invisible 3,000m atmospheric barrier provided some relief. While the altitude had hit hard, it reinforced a great lesson: my body loves active ascents, but mechanical velocity into thin air requires an intentional pause.
Part 6: Lowering the Anchor in Saas-Fee for the Night
After resetting at Felskinn, see my other article on the side trip to the Brittania Hut, I rode the cable cars all the way back down to the safety of Saas-Fee village (1,800m) to stay overnight. If your goal is to eventually climb the Allalinhorn or safely enjoy the high peaks, sleeping at 1,800 m is the best method for proper acclimatization. It gives your body a thick-air environment to rest and build red blood cells overnight without strain.
To celebrate a long day on the snow & ice, I walked down the cobblestone streets to dive into the local Valais dining scene:
Traditional Swiss Fuel: For the ultimate post-hike reward, head to alpine chalet spots like Restaurant Vieux-Chalet or Hotel Restaurant Zur Muehle to dig into a bubbling pot of authentic Swiss cheese fondue or a massive plate of Valais-style Roesti.
Contemporary Mountain Eats: If you prefer something modern, check out Restaurant Essstube for highly rated, beautifully presented regional dishes and excellent local wines.
Waking up the next morning surrounded by the thirteen peaks of Saas-Fee, completely headache-free, proved one thing: the mountains shouldn't be rushed. Let your body take its time, enjoy the incredible journey, and let your legs do the climbing!
Route Summary: Times, Heights & Distances
Zurich HB to Visp (SBB InterCity Train):
Distance Covered: ~131 km
Elevation Change: 408 m to 651 m
Average Travel Time: ~2 hours (direct)
Visp to Saas-Fee (PostBus Route 511):
Distance Covered: ~26 km
Elevation Change: 651 m to 1,800 m
Average Travel Time: ~50 minutes
Saas-Fee to Felskinn (Alpin Express Cable Car):
Distance Covered: ~3.2 km
Elevation Change: 1,800 m to 2,989 m
Average Travel Time: ~15 minutes
Felskinn to Mittelallalin (Metro Alpin Funicular):
Distance Covered: ~1.7 km
Elevation Change: 2,989 m to 3,456 m
Average Travel Time: ~5 minutes
Summary:
Total One-Way Transit Distance (Zurich to the viewing point): ~162 Km
Total Vertical Height Gained: 3,048 vertical meters!
Total Door-to-Peak Travel Window: ~3.5 hours of continuous transit.
Survival Tips for a High-Alpine Adventure
Break Up the Journey: Don't ride the lifts to the top in one straight go. Get off at middle stations like Felskinn, grab a coffee, and let your pulse stabilize for 30-45 mins before heading higher.
Hike the Last Leg: If you love hiking, take a lift to around 2,000m and walk up across the 2,500m line. Gaining altitude slowly (<400m per hour) gives your lungs the perfect window to naturally adjust.
Over-Hydrate: High-alpine air is incredibly dry, and your lungs work twice as hard. Drink double the water you think you need before you step onto the mountain…
This travel adventure was done by the Author on the 23rd of March 2019. See my other articles on hiking in the Saas valley in summer or winter... Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions.
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