Lost Gems: A Tribute to the Eppenberg Via Ferratas
If you look at the Swiss via ferrata (VF) lists today, you’ll find a sad status next to the Eppenberg Climbing Gardens: Dismantled. Built into the shaded limestone cliffs near Schönenwerd, these short, punchy VF routes are now officially gone.
But for those of us lucky enough to have clipped into those cables before they vanished, Eppenberg 1 & 2 hold a nostalgic spot in our climbing logs.
Having tackled Route 2 back in 2019 and returning to conquer the fierce Route 1 in 2020, I got to experience the full spectrum of this vertical playground shortly before it became history.
Standing about 25m high, these limestone walls packed serious, sandbagged technicality and great vibes into a short vertical space. Here is a real, unvarnished look back at the Eppenbergsteigs…
Getting There: a Car-Free Approach
One of the best things about Eppenberg was how effortless the journey felt before you even touched the rock. Strict local forestry laws rightly banned motor vehicles from driving up the dirt paths toward the quarry sector, making public transport the best way to get there.
The routine was simple: take the train into Aarau or Schönenwerd, jump on Bus Line 3 to the "Wöschnau" stop, and set off on foot. From the bus stop, it was a leisurely 10-15-min walk that guided you away from the main road and directly into the cool cover of the forest.
Echoes of the Past: Quarry Origins
To truly understand the unique, unforgiving geometry of the Eppenberg crags, you have to look into their industrial history. This cliffside wasn't shaped solely by natural erosion; parts of the area used to be an active limestone quarry - specifically the Roggenhusersteinbruch sector. For years, heavy machinery blasted and carved away the hillside, leaving behind massive, mostly straight vertical faces.
When the industrial operations fell silent, local climbing pioneer Paul Hunziker spent decades meticulously cleaning the rock, planting flowers, crafting stone sculptures, and securing the steel cables that transformed a rugged scar of industry into a thriving outdoor gym.
Strikingly, Paul didn't stop in his younger years - he created this entire vertical playground as his post-retirement lifetime achievement, and amazingly, he still climbs actively well into his 90s! The sheer, smooth nature of the quarry-cut stone he reclaimed is exactly why these routes give rise to so much respect.
Environmental Toll: Mosquitoes & Mud
While the shaded, low-altitude forest environment made Eppenberg an ideal summer retreat away from the baking sun, it came with an environmental cost. First, the deep shade and stagnant moisture made it an absolute haven for ferocious swarms of mosquitoes. If you forgot your heavy-duty bug spray, you were essentially offering yourself up as a free meal while hanging from a harness.
Furthermore, the limestone walls and dirt paths were notorious for holding dampness long after rain had passed. If the crag was even slightly wet, the rock face turned slick. Smearing on blank quarry walls became a high-stakes slipping hazard, making dry weather a prerequisite for a safe climb.
Route 2: A 2019 Reality Check (Grade KS 3-4 C/D)
My Eppenberg journey started in 2019 on Route #2, nestled on the right side of the sector. Some old guidebooks hinted at an easy day out, but let’s set the record straight: this was never a casual Grade B climb. Because it was built inside an active sport climbing area, there was minimal artificial protection or rungs.
It was essentially a single wire running straight up a steep, honest piece of rock - clocking in at around 5b climbing difficulty. As a VF route, you couldn't just haul on the cable; you had to legitimately use your hands and feet, hunting for natural limestone holds while managing real exposure.
Interestingly, the cable didn't go all the way to the top of the cliff. Once you reached the end of the wire, you were faced with a choice of exits:
Left Traverse (Grade B/C): You could head left and down toward the central rest area, or use it to link directly into the route going up to the gallery above.
Right Exit (Grade A/B): A path heading right & further up the cliff (though I didn't test this one out myself).
The Warm-Up: Grade A to Upper Gallery (~30m)
For those looking for a gentler introduction before committing to the main walls, a distinct rock ridge and gallery ran right above the route at an elevated height of about 30 meters.
Accessed from the far left of the sector via a series of very old cables, iron pegs, and rock chimneys, this vintage line was a blast from the past. It served as an easy Grade A warm-up route in its own right, letting you find your rhythm on a historic ledge system.
The Connector: A Slick Forest Transition & Sunset Views
What many people didn't realize until they got up there is how the crag connected. Above the vertical faces, Parts 1 and 2 were linked via a dense upper forest trail. Getting down between them wasn't just a casual stroll.
The path featured a rather slippery downclimb through the dirt and roots. If the limestone or soil had caught even a bit of rain, this transition became rather slick - definitely not recommended if wet.
But if you caught it on a dry evening, the effort was entirely worth it: the forest trail opened up into a beautiful viewing area that was absolutely perfect for watching the sunset over the region…
Route 1: The 2020 Friction Traverse (Grade KS 4-5 / D+)
When I came back in 2020 to face Route #1, I knew it had a reputation for being hard - but nothing quite prepares you for the mind-game it threw at you. Starting near the central rest area, you began by climbing straight up the middle of the wall.
Once you gained some height, the route forced you into a wild, technical friction traverse left right along the middle of the sheer face and above climbing routes underneath you.
Because of the flat, shear layout inherited from its quarry days, there was zero artificial protection or steel footsteps. This was a pure, hard traverse that demanded serious smearing skills. Trusting your rubber on bare limestone while managing a heavy pump made this a legitimate Grade KS 4-5 or D+ beast.
Anatomy of a Fall: My Only Slip in 120+ Routes
It was here, on this blank, technical traverse, that I experienced my single most harrowing moment on a rock face. Over a climbing career spanning more than 120 VF routes, I had a flawless record. Eppenberg Route 1 broke it.
As I fought my way across the traverse, I made the classic error of pulling too hard on the wire to compensate for the slick rock (and lack of climbing shoes). The forearm pump hit hard and within seconds, my lactic-burned fingers simply forced themselves open, and I lost my grip.
I dropped instantly, plunging down below the wire. Luckily, because of where I fell relative to the anchor points, my via ferrata shock absorber didn’t deploy [much]. But the real nightmare started after the sudden stop.
Hanging there, drained of energy, I had to figure out how to get back up to the wire - I wish I’d clipped a ‘Rest System’ in at the same time which would have prevented this problem!
On a shear, blank quarry wall with zero foot-rungs, trying to regain the wire when your arms are already spent is a mental and physical battle. I eventually hauled myself along the wire a bit then back up to safety, but it was a sobering reminder of just how real the danger at Eppenberg could be. (Luckily no one saw me fail like this!)
Nature First: Off-Season for the Birds
Beyond the physical constraints, climbing here required strict alignment with nature's calendar. The Eppenberg cliffs are a critical ecosystem for cliff-nesting species, such as the Common Swift (Mauersegler). To give these birds a peaceful environment to raise their young, local climbing organizations enforced a strict seasonal closure (Kletterverzicht) from May 1st to July 31st.
Specific technical traverse routes like the Ornithologen-Promenade were legally off-limits during these months. Respecting this off-season was non-negotiable for keeping the crag open to the public.
Eppenberg Today: a Sport Climbing Haven
While the VF cables are a memory, the crag itself has exploded into a premier sport climbing destination managed by the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) Aarau. The crag now features 121 active routes stretching across 4 distinct sectors with a massive grade range from 3a to 7c:
Klettergarten Links (Left): 33 routes Grades 3b to 7b+ Steep, highly athletic wall climbing that has become a bit polished over time.
Klettergarten Rechts (Right): 27 routes Grades 3a to 5c+ Highly varied limestone featuring open corners, ridges, and technical pillars.
Roggenhusersteinbruch (Quarry): 33 routes Grades 3a to 5c+ The historic quarry wall offering a polarizing mix of easy slabs and technical vertical lines.
Roggehuse 2 (New Sector): 24 routes Grades 3a to 6b+ Developed as a brand-new area away from the classic routes. It provides fresh, clean limestone lines away from the polished holds of the historic sectors.
Post-Climb Vibes: Eppenberg Fire Pit
The best part about wrapping up a tough day on these walls was the layout of the crag itself. At the base of the climbing area sat a well-maintained public fire pit, completely set up for a classic outdoor BBQ - just bring your own supplies…
Why the Cables Came Down: The End of an Era
So, why can you no longer climb these VF routes? In October 2021, the IG Klettern Jurasüdfuss announced their permanent retirement. The lines were in incredibly poor condition and required extensive, costly maintenance. But more importantly, they were never actually intended to be public, permanent via ferratas - they were originally established as temporary access aids for route builders to bolt and clean the sport climbing lines.
As via ferrata tourism in Switzerland grew, recreational climbers traversing across the middle of the walls began triggering dangerous (small) rockfalls. On a shared cliffside, a loose stone knocked free by a ferrata climber could drop directly onto the sport climbers below.
To eliminate the safety hazard and protect the climbing community, the local authorities made the tough call to pull the plug, unbolt the lines, and return the cliff entirely to pure rock climbing.
Final Thoughts: The Right Decision for a Lost Gem
Looking back at the history, layout, and raw nature of the crags, my conclusion is that removing the via ferrata routes was the right decision. The truth is, these lines were caught in a problematic middle ground: they were far too difficult for standard VF enthusiasts who weren’t used to actual rock climbing techniques, yet they were far too easy for dedicated sport climbers - acting more as an obstacle that physically got in their way on the real wall.
While the closure is logical, I will always retain fond memories of my time spent on these cliffs. Clipping into Eppenberg's unforgiving quarry steel was a unique chapter in Swiss climbing history, and those of us who got to experience it will always look up at those walls with a sense of nostalgia.
However, if you miss this type of climbing, then you should try the VF route at the Arnisee climbing garden near Amsteg - see my other article for details. These routes were climbed by the Author in 2019-20. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions.
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