Rigi Kulm to Gersau: Conquering the Rigi’s Southern Flank

From Peaks to Ladders: Conquering the Rigi’s Southern Flank

If you think Mount Rigi is just for casual tourists, slow-paced strolls, and gentle cogwheel train rides, then think again. While the northern side of the "Queen of the Mountains" is famous for its rolling green pastures and paved panoramic paths, the rugged southern flank hides a thrilling secret.

This custom hiking itinerary takes you from the bustling, high-altitude clouds of Rigi Kulm, drops you down through engineered cliffside ledge walks, and throws you headfirst into vertical iron ladders, narrow ridge lines, and a blistering 1,300m alpine descent straight to the sapphire waters of Lake Lucerne - officially known in Swiss German as the Vierwaldstättersee. So grab your boots, we are crossing the massif from peak to lake, and it is going to be epic…

Route at a Glance

• Start: Rigi Kulm Station (1,797m)

• Finish: Gersau Jetty (435m)

• Distance: ~13.5 to 15 kilometers

• Elevation Change: +250m / -1,600m

• Difficulty: T1 (Easy) to T3+ (Challenging Mountain Hiking)

• Time: 5.5 to 6.5 hours of active trekking

• Best Season: Early June to Oct (seasonal due to winter snow/ice closures).

[Rigi Kulm] ➔ [Rigi Staffel] ➔ [Rigi First] ➔ [Felsenweg] ➔ [Ladder Path] ➔ [Gersauerstock Ridge] ➔ [Vitznauerstock Summit & Crosses] ➔ [Wissifluh] ➔ [Gersau]

Getting There: Logistics Made Easy

Because this is a point-to-point, downhill ridge traverse, you start and end at different locations. Thanks to Switzerland's integrated transit network, doing this without a car is easy.

Getting to the Start: (Rigi Kulm)

• Via Lucerne (Scenic Route): Take the historic lake ferry from Lucerne Boat Jetty to Vitznau. Step off the boat and board the red Vitznau-Rigi Cogwheel Railway up to the final stop, Rigi Kulm.

• Via Zurich: Take the train to Arth-Goldau station. Change platforms directly to the blue Goldau-Rigi Cogwheel Railway & ride it straight to the summit.

  

Returning from the Finish: (Gersau)

• Ferry: Walk straight to the Gersau Boat Jetty (Schiffstation) on the waterfront. Catch the classic passenger ferry back toward Vitznau/Lucerne.

• Bus: If there is a gap in the ferry schedule, hop on Bus 502 on the lakeside promenade. This runs frequently along the Riviera, dropping you at the Vitznau or Brunnen train stations within minutes.

  

Deep Dive: The Majestic Vierwaldstättersee

Before taking your first step down the mountain, it helps to understand the sprawling body of water dominating the view. The Vierwaldstättersee (literally translated as the "Lake of the Four Forested Cantons" is widely considered the cultural & historical heart of Switzerland.

Formed over 15,000 years ago by the retreating meltwaters of the massive Reuss Glacier, the lake boasts a wildly complex, fjord-like shape. Rather than a simple oval pool, it branches into four distinct structural arms with sharp bends and deep basins. This structural layout creates a dramatic microclimate along the Rigi's southern flank, turning villages like Vitznau & Gersau into the "Riviera of Central Switzerland" where palm trees and chestnut groves unexpectedly thrive at the foot of snow-capped peaks.

Historically, this lake was the original highway of central Europe. Long before roads or rail tracks were chiseled into the cliffs, the lake was the only viable connection through the dangerous Gotthard Pass corridor. 

More importantly, its shores birthed the Swiss nation itself. In 1291, representatives from the three founding forest cantons - Uri, Schwyz & Unterwalden - met across the water on the legendary meadow of Rütli to swear the oath of confederation. When the neighboring city-state of Lucerne joined the alliance in the 1450s, the "Four Cantons" were complete, giving the Vierwaldstättersee its modern name. 

Part 1: The Calm Before the Climb: Rigi Kulm to First via Felsenweg

The hike starts at Rigi Kulm (1,797m), where the air is crisp and the 360-degree panorama stretches across 13 lakes and a sea of jagged alpine giants - see my other articles.

Did You Know? Cradle of Alpine Tourism

Long before ski lifts existed, Rigi Kulm was the birthplace of European mountain tourism. In 1816, the first alpine guesthouse opened on the summit, drawing literary giants like Mark Twain & Queen Victoria, who ascended on horseback in 1868. The overwhelming influx of wealthy global elites sparked the construction of Europe's very first cogwheel railway here in 1871.

The initial leg is joyful. You'll stroll down wide, sweeping gravel paths parallel to the historic cogwheel tracks down to Rigi Staffel, surrounded by rolling green pastures and the gentle clanging of Swiss cowbells. 

From Staffel, follow the flat, manicured Rigi Panorama Trail to Rigi First. This is an effortless warm-up, but the scenery shifts dramatically as you branch onto the spectacular Felsenweg (Rock Trail).

Here, the path is safely chiseled directly into a sheer conglomerate rock face. You are walking on history - this trail uses the abandoned 1875 trackbed of the Rigi-Kaltbad-Scheidegg Railway, which was the highest adhesion railway in Europe during the Belle Époque era before closing in 1931.

As you round the curves, the trail feels like an open-air museum. You’ll pass an old stone water filling station used by 19th-century steam locomotives and an authentic vintage train carriage parked right on the edge of the abyss (which has oddly been converted into a private holiday home!).

The climax of this section is crossing the historic Unterstetten Bridge. Suspended out over a 100m-deep ravine, you walk across an iron-girder bridge supported by steel towers that closely mirror the architecture of the Eiffel Tower. Take a moment to sit on one of the panoramic wooden benches here. The amazing view frames Mount Pilatus, Bürgenstock, & Stanserhorn perfectly lined up across the shimmering blue glass of the Vierwaldstättersee.

Where to Fuel Up:

• Rigi Staffel Hub: Choose between Restaurant Lok 7 for hearty, regional sit-down dishes, or the self-service Restaurant Bahnhöfli for a quick bite.

• Berggasthaus Unterstetten: Located directly at the Felsenweg. Stop on the outdoor terrace for an authentic mountain cheese platter. Enjoy the easy footing while it lasts, because the tourist highway ends right here…

  

Part 2: Into the Wild: Ladder Path & Gersauerstock Ridge Trail

Leaving the crowds behind at Unterstetten, you dive straight into the rugged, untamed topography of the Rigi’s southern side. The gentle terrain transforms instantly into an alpine environment.

Survival Alert: The Dry Zone

From this point until you clear the summit, there is absolutely no water or food available. You should carry at least 1.5 liters of water and pocket energy snacks to sustain you through this physical phase.

Soon, you'll reach the infamous Ladder Path. To breach a massive limestone ledge and scramble up to the upper ridge, you must navigate a short, vertical iron ladder bolted directly into the rock chimney. It’s a nice little scramble, flanked by fixed steel cables and chains to keep your hands secure.

Folklore: An Ancient Dragon’s Lair

According to 15th-century Lucernese chronicles, dragons frequently flew across the lake between Mount Pilatus and Mount Rigi. Hence the dragon logo of the Pilatus Funicular. Local folklore explicitly claimed that these fire-breathing monsters built their nests directly within the jagged limestone chimneys of this southern face - the same rock walls you are now climbing…

Once your head pops up over the cliff edge, you are greeted by the Gersauerstock Ridge Trail. This narrow, undulating dirt-and-root spine requires sure-footedness. With steep drop-offs on either side, every step counts as you weave through the trees toward the top.

Part 3: The Peak & the Two Crosses: Summit to Wissifluh

At 1,451 m, the geographic summit is a heavily forested crest that marks the physical border between the cantons of Lucerne and Schwyz. Because local towns on both sides claim it as their pride and joy, the mountain has two names: Vitznauerstock to the west, and Gersauerstock to the east. 

While the wooded summit itself blocks the view, a short walk off the crest reveals some visual rewards:

• West Cross (Vitznau Side): A massive iron cross perched right on the edge of the cliff. Standing here feels like standing on the bow of a ship, looking straight down over the sweeping Bürgenstock peninsula and the jagged peaks of the Pilatus.

• East Cross (Gersau Side): A smaller, intimate cross framing a postcard view of the razor-sharp Rigi Hochflue peak.

After soaking in the views, prepare your knees. The trail drops like a stone through tight forest switchbacks. It is steep, slick, and technical - so much so that fixed guide ropes are pinned to the trees to help you slide down the steepest sections. Eventually, the trees part, and you spill out onto the alpine terrace of Wissifluh.

Where to Fuel Up:

• Bergrestaurant Wissifluh: This incredibly peaceful, south-facing farm restaurant serves locally sourced alpine food & nice cool drinks…

Pro-Tip: If your knees are hurting by this point, Wissifluh features a tiny, historic 1908 cable car that can glide you down to the valley floor.

Part 4: The Lakeside Finish: Wissifluh to Gersau

For those pushing through on foot, the final leg takes you deep into the canopy of the Glattenwald forest.

History: The Via Crucis

As you descend through the forest, the trail transitions into a historic Via Crucis (Stations of the Cross). Marked by ancient stone shrines and plaques depicting scenes of the Passion of Christ, this path was carved during the late medieval counter-reformation era when Mount Rigi shifted into a landscape of holy Catholic pilgrimage.

As the dense trees begin to clear, the mountain air gives way to a soft lakeside breeze. Suddenly, the trail spits you out directly onto the sunny, Mediterranean-style waterfront promenade of Gersau.

History: Smallest Free Republic in the World

Your finish line, Gersau, holds an extraordinary political legacy. In 1390, the fishermen and farmers of this secluded bay pooled their money to buy their freedom from the ruling House of Habsburg. For the next 368 years, the tiny 24 Km2 town existed as an independent, fully sovereign nation - the Republic of Gersau - until Napoleon's troops dissolved it in 1798. 

Grab a seat at a lakeside cafe and enjoy the Riviera vibe while you wait for the paddle steamer ferry to take you back home. You've earned it!

Hiking Tips

• Seasonal Window: Because of heavy winter snow accumulation and dangerous ice sheets forming on the sheer north-facing, limestone rock faces, the Ladder Path and the Vitznauer Trail are strictly closed and impassable during the winter and early spring months. Only attempt this full point-to-point trek from early June to October.

• Trekking poles are your friend to stabilize your descent and protect your joints on the 1,600m downhill trek.

• Weather Warning: This route is strictly a fair-weather trek. The limestone on the ladder path and the steep dirt on the Vitznauer trail become dangerously slick in the rain or fog.

This route was hiked by the author on the 4th of September 2021. See my other articles on summer and winter hikes on the Rigi. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions.