Hiking Val d’Hérens: Suspended Bridges, Hot Springs & Earth Pyramids
If you are looking for a Swiss hiking experience that trades overcrowded tourist hubs for rugged canyons, geological anomalies, and a secret geothermal swim, then this point-to-point trek in the Val d’Hérens, Valais is a perfect match.
This hike connects the quiet mountain village of La Luette to the bizarre, stone-capped Pyramids of Euseigne, throwing in a 133m suspension bridge and a detour to a hidden riverside hot spring along the way. Here is your guide to conquering this spectacular trail.
Route Summary
Start: La Luette Village
End: Pyramids of Euseigne (Euseigne, village bus stop)
Distance: ~9 kilometers
Duration: 3.5 to 4 hours total (Allows for ~2.5 hours of active hiking, plus 1–1.5 hours to relax, swim, and picnic at the springs).
Difficulty: Easy-Moderate. Expect a technical, loose descent into the canyon and a short, heart-pumping climb out.
Logistics: Fully accessible via public transit from Sion (no car required).
Food & Dining Note: There are no restaurants or shops along this trail once you walk out of La Luette. You must pack your own lunch, snacks, and lots of water. The wide gravel banks at the Combioula Hot Springs make for an incredible wilderness picnic, and there are convenient picnic tables situated right by the pyramids at the end of the trail where you can rest & eat while waiting for your bus.
Seasonal Timing Guide
Best Months to Visit: June to October:
July & August: Offers long, warm days and excellent visibility of the distant peaks like the Dent Blanche, though the canyon floor gets quite hot and the springs are at their busiest.
Sept & October: The connoisseur’s choice. The crisp mountain air makes the steep climb out of the gorge much more comfortable, the autumn larch forests turn a stunning golden hue, and you will share the hot springs with fewer people.
Winter & Spring (Nov to May): Avoid this period. Winter snow makes the technical descent hazardous, and spring snowmelt raises the river levels, completely submerging the thermal rock pools in freezing glacial water.
Getting There & Back (Sion Transit Guide)
Val d’Hérens features a reliable, highly synchronized postal bus network (PostBus Line 381) that connects directly to the main train station in Sion:
Journey Out (Sion ➔ La Luette): Arrive at the Sion railway station [PostBus (CarPostal). Walk out to the adjacent bus terminal (Sion, poste/gare). Board the PostBus Line 381 (bound for Les Haudères or Arolla). The bus winds up the beautiful valley slopes, dropping you off directly at the La Luette, village stop in just 25 mins.
Journey Home (Euseigne ➔ Sion): Your hike finishes directly at the earth pyramids. Walk just past the main rock formations to the Euseigne, village bus stop. Board the northbound Line 381 bus, which returns you straight to the Sion train station in 26 minutes or so. Buses run hourly throughout the day.
1. Crossing the Valley: La Luette to the Ossona Footbridge
Your journey begins in the charming, traditional mountain village of La Luette. Setting off on the trail, you will immediately begin tracking down toward the western slope of the canyon. Keep an eye out on clear days for glimpses of the towering Dent Blanche (4,357m) and the jagged Pic d'Arzinol (2,998m) framing the skyline. The path leads you directly to the first major highlight of the day: the Passerelle de la Grande Combe (the Ossona Footbridge).
Culture & History (the Ossona Plateau)
Long before the Ossona Footbridge was built to bridge the canyon, the high Ossona Plateau was a thriving farming area. However, its extreme isolation caused it to be completely abandoned for nearly 40 years as modern life pulled families down into the valleys. In a massive local, cantonal, and federal effort, the historic stone-and-wood alpine hamlet was painstakingly restored into an agritourism site to rescue the structural legacy of the region's ancestors.
The 133 m suspension bridge was engineered to connect this revived slice of history to the modern trail network. Crossing it offers a thrilling rush of adrenaline, hanging 30 m above the drop while serving up a magnificent, framed preview of the Euseigne pyramids waiting for you in the distance…
2. Into the Canyon Depth: Descent to the Borgne
Once across the footbridge, the trail winds past the historic agritourism hamlet of Ossona and begins a sharp, somewhat technical descent.
Culture & History (Borgne River Gorge)
The Borgne River has long been the lifeblood and geographic architect of the Val d'Hérens. Historically, this deep, shadowed gorge acted as a formidable physical barrier between the mountain communities. In early alpine folklore, the valley was occasionally referred to as the "Valley of the Devil" because its treacherous, mist-filled canyons made travel between villages highly dangerous. Today, instead of isolating communities, the river's rushing waters serve the region via modern hydroelectric infrastructure.
Watch your footing here - sturdy hiking boots are essential as you drop down to the canyon floor, crossing a low bridge over the rushing water near the local dam.
3. Hidden Detour: the Combioula Hot Springs
Instead of immediately tackling the climb out of the canyon, take a right turn at the river junction. A brief 10-15-min walk downstream along the water’s edge brings you to a hidden paradise: the Sources de Combioula. Spot the rustic wooden bridge spanning the alpine river, and you've arrived.
Culture & History (Geothermal Alchemy)
The thermal waters of the Combioula Hot Springs have been known since the 15th century. When medieval ancestors witnessed steam rising mysteriously from the freezing river banks, it fueled legends of supernatural activity under the valley floor.
The scientific reality is just as fascinating: surface water sinks over 800m deep into geological faults, heating up by the planet's geothermal gradient before rising back up at 26-29°C. In the late 18th century, the famous Valaisan magistrate and inventor Isaac de Rivaz tried to commercially exploit the springs by excavating a mining gallery to extract valuable salts. He ran out of funds, abandoning the project, but you can still spot the top of his historic stone gallery door hidden right near the water level.
Ghost Barns of the Gorge:
As you approach the wooden bridge, you will pass a handful of crumbling, abandoned agricultural buildings. These are centuries-old ‘mayens’ - seasonal alpine barns used during the historic practice of transhumance (moving livestock between valley floors and high pastures). Because the gorge floor is incredibly isolated and prone to flash floods, early Valaisan farmers used these crude stone-and-timber outposts exclusively to shelter cattle and store hay during the brief seasonal transition periods.
As modern agriculture consolidated and the valley roads opened up, these hard-to-reach canyon outposts were slowly abandoned to nature, leaving behind beautiful, silent ghosts of the region's harsh agricultural past.
Lunch Break: Unpack your picnic on the flat gravel shore, soak in the stone-walled rock pools built by visiting hikers, and - if you are feeling brave - take an icy plunge into the main glacial river right next to it…
4. Grand Finale: Climbing to the Pyramids of Euseigne
After drying off and packing up your lunch, retrace your steps back to the main trail junction. From here, you will face the most demanding part of the day: a brief but steep uphill climb out of the canyon gorge. Your reward at the top is nothing short of breathtaking as the trail deposits you directly at the base of the Pyramids of Euseigne.
Culture & History (Fairy Chimneys & Village Fire Lore)
Classified as a natural site of national importance, these 10-15-meter-high earth columns were created at the end of the last ice age (the Würm period). As the local glacier retreated, it left behind a highly compressed layer of moraine clay studded with large, heavy boulders.
Millennia of wind and rain eroded the unprotected clay, but where the massive stones sat, they acted as protective umbrellas, shielding the earth directly beneath them and creating these distinct "caps". Locally, they are affectionately called Les Demoiselles Coiffées ("Damsels with Coiffed Hair") or "Fairy Chimneys".
The nearby village of Euseigne has its own dramatic history; it was completely devastated by massive fires in 1800 and 1917. Local superstition dictates that if a third fire ever strikes the village, the protective rocks beneath it will finally split open and swallow the town whole. Fortunately, the stone-capped sentinels still stand tall today…
Pro-Tip for Hikers: While you can easily and carefully hike all around the perimeter of the formations to get incredible photo angles, note that the pathways directly underneath or winding right through the center of the columns are sometimes closed off.
Because these ancient earth structures are incredibly fragile and prone to rockfall or erosion from foot traffic, local authorities frequently block close access for preservation and safety. Respect the barriers, stay on the designated loop, and enjoy their immense scale safely from the main viewing path.
A Triumph for Conservation
If you visited this area in the past, you likely remember vehicles and post buses squeezing dangerously through a narrow, historic 1947 archway cut right into the center of the pyramids. The constant vehicle vibrations and exhaust were a major threat to these fragile monuments. Thankfully, a massive engineering bypass tunnel was completed in late 2023, rerouting all vehicle traffic completely away from the structures.
Today, the old road has been permanently closed to cars and converted into a peaceful pedestrian path, allowing you to experience the true scale of the pyramids in absolute safety and silence. Take your time capturing photos of these ancient geological wonders before heading over to the picnic tables to relax and wait for your ride back to Sion…
Essential Packing & Safety Tips
Footwear: High-traction hiking boots with good ankle support are essential for the loose gravel sections heading down into the gorge.
Swim Gear: Pack a lightweight travel towel and swimwear for the Combioula Hot Springs detour.
Hydration: Bring plenty of water; the steep climb out of the canyon is entirely exposed to the afternoon sun.
Hydroelectric Dam Awareness: The Borgne River is regulated by upstream hydroelectric infrastructure connected to the Grande Dixence system - see my other articles. Sudden water surges can cause river levels around the hot springs to rise rapidly without warning. Always stay alert, avoid setting up picnic blankets directly next to the active currents, and never ignore local safety warning signs.
Timing the Sunlight: Because you are descending into a deep, narrow canyon, the gorge floor gets sunlight late and loses it early. If you want to experience the thermal pools under warm sunshine, time your hike so that you arrive at the riverbed between 11:00 AM and 2:00 PM.
This route was hiked by the author on the 4th of July 2020. See my other articles on hikes and climbs in this area. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions.
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