Conquering Vertigo: the Thrilling Via Ferrata d’Evolène
The peaks of the Val d’Hérens are shrouded in early morning mist as we make preparations in the charming Valaisan village of Evolène. Today, we are swapping our usual alpine hiking for pure, vertical adrenaline.
High above us, cutting like a scar into the rugged face of the Rocs de Villa, lies the legendary Via Ferrata d'Evolène. But before clipping your carabiners to the cable, here is a quick look at the route ahead…
Route Summary
Length: ~2.3 km (loop from village)
Elevation Gain: ~350 meters
Duration: 2 to 2.5 hours total
Difficulty: K4 to K2 to K5 (requires some technical skills & safety gear)
Key Features: Sky ladder, air exposure & a final heavy-duty cargo net finish.
Approach: Walking Through Living History
Our journey begins in the heart of Evolène, an official Swiss heritage site celebrated for its beautifully preserved, sun-blackened timber chalets and multi-story raccards (grain storehouses built on stone stilts). Walking through these narrow streets feels like a trip back to the 14th century, when local traders regularly traversed the high passes to Italy.
Keep your ears open: Evolène is one of the very few places left in the Swiss Alps where locals still actively speak Patois, an ancient Franco-Provençal alpine dialect.
We grab a quick coffee, check our equipment, and pass the paraglider landing field at the edge of the village. Following the trail signs, the path pitches upward through a dense larch forest. The air grows cooler, the scent of pine fills the air, and suddenly, the trees part.
The massive, west-facing rock wall looms directly overhead. We clip our carabiners onto the steel cable, glance down at the valley floor already shrinking below us, and take a deep breath…
Phase 1: Mur du Grand Duc & the Sky Ladder
Logistics Tip: If you want to drop any non-climbing bags or extra gear, you can safely leave them at the base of the crag by the main route description sign. The descent path from the summit brings you right back to this exact spot!
Note that it is possible to bypass the start, hike straight up to the traverse and do the Great Wall first, but then you have to hike back to the real start and do that, then use the first 'emergency' exit...
The route wastes no time. Built as a modern, "French-style" sports route to inject summer adventure tourism into the valley, it skips a gentle warm-up. You start right at the base of the cliff with a breathless, vertical overhang graded K4 D.
Your arms burn almost immediately as you ascend the iron rungs, fighting gravity. Just when you think you need a break, the route snakes into a airy diagonal traverse to the left. The exposure hits hard - there’s nothing but empty air beneath your feet.
This leads you directly into the first major highlight: the sky ladder. Bolted into the vertical face, this long metal ladder forces you to climb completely exposed to the elements. Topping out at the junction known as Le Mélèze, we catch our breath, and realize the valley floor is already a distant patch of green...
Phase 2: High-Wire Ledge (Vire des Chamois)
For those whose nerves or arms are spent, the escape route at the top of the ladder offers a way out. But for us, the journey continues along the cliff face…
The middle section transitions into a narrow rock shelf known as the Vire des Chamois (graded K2 B). While the physical strain on your upper body eases up, make no mistake: the danger is still real. You remain securely clipped into the continuous safety wire as you navigate a path cut straight across the mountain.
Look closely at the green pastures below. These meadows are the ancestral home of the stocky, jet-black Hérens Cows and the rare, patched Evolène Cattle. Famous for their fiery, aggressive temperaments, these unique alpine breeds naturally fight to establish a social hierarchy.
Every spring, the valley erupts into the Combat de Reines (Battle of the Queens) festivals to see which cow will lead the herd up to the high summer pastures. Listening to the echoes of their heavy cowbells gives you a beautiful mental breather before the route turns fierce again.
Phase 3: Grand Mur & Cargo Net Finale
Enjoy the peace while it lasts, because the final tier - the Grand Mur - is reserved for experienced climbers with serious upper body strength (graded a K5 D/E).
Pro-Tip: The K5/E Strategy
While anyone attempting the full route will undoubtedly be using their own trusted gear, it's advisable to do the Grand Mur with a dedicated rest system. A short sling or cowtail equipped with a locking carabiner attached directly to your harness belay loop is a very useful item.
When your forearms tire on the sustained overhangs or while transitioning onto the heavy cargo net, you can clip directly into a rung to take your body weight off completely without risking your primary VF lanyards.
The rock folds outward, pushing you into intense, physical overhangs. Every placement requires focus. You are dangling hundreds of meters in the air. Just when your muscles scream for the finish line, you encounter the grand finale: the metal cargo net.
A large grid of heavy-duty metal ropes is bolted directly over the final cliff edge. Climbing it feels industrial and athletic. You have to weave your hands and feet through the heavy mesh, wrestling the swaying metal as you pull yourself up over the lip of the mountain.
Stepping off the net, you are greeted by a small wooden weather box containing the summit visitor logbook, the famous "Sortie des Héros" (Heroes' Exit) sign, and a perfectly placed picnic bench. The adrenaline rush gives way to pure euphoria. Time for a break...
Descent: Returning to Reality
After a well-deserved rest at the 1,700m summit, it is time to close the loop. The descent is a scenic, well-marked hiking trail that winds back down through the pastures and alpine meadows.
If you hike this trail in the early spring, the mountain face serves as the backdrop for the Evolène Carnival - a pagan winter ritual where young locals dress in heavy straw suits (Empaillés) and frightening, hand-carved wooden animal masks (Peluches) to scare away evil spirits and usher in the spring.
Within 45 mins of winding down the switchbacks, we are back on the flat valley floor, walking past the paraglider fields and back into the historic streets of Evolène...
Victory Feast: Where to Eat in the Village
You can't finish a legendary Valaisan climb without a proper local meal to celebrate. Head into the heart of the village to refuel on regional specialties made from the milk of those very same Hérens cows:
For the Ultimate Alpine Vibe: Head straight to Restaurant Au Mazot Chez Raymonde. It serves authentic wood-fired raclette (Raclette au feu de bois) inside a cozy, traditional chalet atmosphere.
For a Gourmet Surprise: Check out Restaurant La Paix - La Grange. They specialize in regional dishes cooked over a traditional hot stone (pierre ollaire), alongside their famous cheese fondue served directly inside a hollowed-out artisan bread loaf.
For Mountain Views with Your Meal: Grab a table at Café-Restaurant Le Refuge SA. Their terrace gives you a magnificent view right back up at the surrounding peaks, offering massive portions of local food & an excellent regional wine to toast your success.
Summer in the Village: What Else to Do/See
If you are basing yourself in town for a couple of days, you don't need a car to experience the best of local Valaisan culture right around the village perimeter:
Musée d'Evolène: Tucked into a beautiful historic house in the center of town, the Musée d'Evolène offers a deep look into high-alpine history, showcasing traditional costumes, weaving looms, and carnival artifacts.
Friday Morning Artisan Market: Every Friday morning during the summer, the main village street transforms into a lively market. It is the best place to buy raw-milk Tomme cheese, local alpine honey, and custom woodwork directly from valley craftsmen.
Les Haudères River Walk: For a beautiful, flat recovery stroll, a 3 km shaded pedestrian path runs right alongside the Borgne river, connecting Evolène to the neighboring village of Les Haudères under massive mountain views.
Lannaz-Chemeuille Chairlift: Located right on the village boundary, the Lannaz-Chemeuille chairlift whisk you up to 2,000 m in minutes. It is a fantastic spot to grab a coffee at the mountain restaurant, watch paragliders launch, or walk past grazing Hérens herds.
How to Get Here (Public Transport from Sion)
Reaching the trailhead without a vehicle is straightforward thanks to the Swiss postal bus network:
PostBus Connection: Catch the iconic yellow bus #381 departing directly from the Sion, poste/gare terminal outside the main Sion railway station.
Travel Time/Frequency: The bus departs hourly, running seven days a week in the summer. The scenic journey takes roughly 35 minutes.
Pro-Tip: Snag a window seat on the left side of the bus when heading up from Sion. It gives you a front-row view of the deep river canyons and a perfect angle of the famous Pyramids of Euseigne earth pillars as the bus tunnels right through them! Hop off at the Evolène, Village stop to land right at the start of your adventure.
Evolène in Winter
Winter transforms Evolène from a rocky playground into a quiet, snow-covered fairytale. The entire valley feels wonderfully frozen in time, embracing a slow-paced, traditional alpine atmosphere rather than the flashiness of the mega-resorts.
If you visit during the snowy months, the landscape offers distinct seasonal experiences:
"Lapland" River Trails & Nordic Skiing
Cross-Country Skiing: The area spanning Evolène and Les Haudères features some of the most beautiful Nordic ski trails in the central Valais, offering over 42 km of tracks.
Valley Stroll: The flat path connecting Evolène to Les Haudères along the Borgne river completely transforms. Walking it in the winter snow feels exactly like being in Lapland, surrounded by frosted larch forests and looking up at cliffside waterfalls frozen into massive ice curtains.
Traditional, Family-Sized Skiing
Slopes: You won't find massive lift crowds here. Part of the Espace Dent-Blanche ski domain, Evolène Ski Resort provides around 42 km of alpine pistes winding from the village up to a high elevation of 2,600 m.
Snow: Because of the high altitude, the terrain is a paradise for deep-powder backcountry and ski touring. If you want guaranteed high-altitude snow, the Arolla area further up the valley sits comfortably at 2,000 m.
Ice Climbing: The cliffs that host your summer via ferrata become prime terrain for ice climbers tackling the area's frozen winter waterfalls.
Famous Pagan Carnival
If you are there between January and March, the town hosts the legendary Evolène Carnival. This ancient, pagan winter festival is one of the last deeply rooted carnival traditions in Switzerland:
Peluches: Locals wear terrifying, heavy, hand-carved wooden animal masks and thick sheepskins to haunt the streets.
Empaillés: Figures stuffed entirely with straw carry massive cowbells to make a deafening noise, a symbolic ritual designed to wake the valley up, scare away winter evil spirits, and usher in the spring.
This route was climbed by the author on the 4th of July 2020. See my other articles about hiking in the area. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions.
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