Zittergrat & Rigdalstock: an Engelberg VF Triple Header

My 2020 Redemption for the Brunnistockli 2018 Failure…

Two years after being forced to turn around on the grueling approach to the Rigidalstock, after having successfully completed the Brunnistockli VF, I stepped off the cable car at the Engelberg Brunni-Bahnen with an entirely different engine under the hood. I was no longer the naive, beginner climber suffocating in the freezing 2018 clouds…

If you are new to the Brunni side of the valley, check out my Guide to the Brunnistoeckli Via Ferrata for all the essential details on train travel, the VF route, Swiss hut dining, and the local legends of the valley...

With these logistics out of the way, 2020 was purely about the vertical challenge. I was stronger in the legs and lungs, my cardiovascular endurance had dramatically improved, and I had mapped out a high-efficiency vertical strategy. My goal on this return trip was not just to finish the peak that had previously defeated me - it was to crush 3 VF routes in a single day. 

From the first clip of the carabiners to the final step back on the alpine meadows, I hit a perfect alpine flow state. I felt fantastic all the way through, tracking absolutely no physical problems, and executed the ultimate redemption day. 

By targeting the Brunni face systematically, I was aiming to officially check off 3 out of 5 of Engelberg's legendary Vertical 5 Challenge routes. Here is exactly how the ultimate triple-header unfolded…

Redemption Scorecard: The Triple-Header Metrics

• Route 1a/b: Zittergrat K4 & Brunnistockli K2 (Vertical Test Wall/Warmup)

• Route 2: Rigidalstockwand K4 (Western Face Ascent)

• Route 3: Rigidalstockgrat K3 (Eastern Ridge Descent)

• Total Distance: 8.0 kilometers (Loop from the lift station)

• Total Elevation Change: +/- 890 meters of vertical gain/loss

• Basecamp Hub: Brunnihuette SAC (1,860m)

• Summit Point: Rigidalstock Summit Cross (2,593m).

Step 1: The Fitness Test - Zittergrat (K4)

To prove how much my upper-body strength and technical conditioning had changed since 2018, I bypassed the standard beginner warm-up of the Brunnistoeckli VF. Instead, I marched straight to the base of the intimidating Zittergrat. This is a relatively short route, but it is an absolute vertical tour de force. Rated K4 (Grade D / Hard), it was purposefully engineered as a training wall to test if a climber possesses the raw physical arm power and mental stamina required for the massive alpine routes across Switzerland. It is intended for experienced climbers due to its severe, muscle-draining overhangs…

The Cruxes: Right from the very first clip, the route hits you with a sheer, overhanging limestone wall. There is no gentle introduction or flat ledge to ease your nerves. You are immediately throwing your entire body weight onto your arms, forcing rapid, fluid carabiner changes on the steel cable while your boot heels dangle in empty air.

The Traverse: After clearing the intense initial vertical upswing, you navigate a highly exposed, athletic layaway traverse. This section requires precise foot placement as you make your way directly across a bulging rock section with sweeping exposure beneath your feet.

Pro Tip: Using a Rest System

It was right on these punishing overhangs that I used a vital piece of gear missing from my 2018 kit: a dedicated rest system (resting sling). When your arms begin to pump out on an intense K4 route, you cannot easily rest using your standard shock-absorbing lanyards - they are simply too long and leave you dangling away from the rock face (or will be over-stressed anyway). 

By clipping a short, static sling with a single-action carabiner directly into the integrated belay loop of my via ferrata set, I was able to clip myself directly into the iron rungs at the steepest sections in order to take photos.

The Rejoining Junction: Pulling over the final vertical lip of the Zittergrat cliff face with virtually fresh forearms was the exact confirmation I needed. The training - and the tactical use of a proper rest system - had worked. At this point, the Zittergrat route officially ends right at the prominent mountain cross, merging directly back into the classic Brunnistoeckli route. 

From this junction, you cross the final signature suspension bridge (the Engelsbruecke) hanging high over the void, and then climb the final steep vertical ladder (the Himmelsleiter) to top out cleanly at the Schonegg ridge. I was now ready for the main event…

Step 2: Conquering Defeat - Rigidalstockwand (K4)

From the exit of the Zittergrat/Brunnistoeckli crest, I pushed rapidly up the T3 white-blue alpine approach trail toward the towering pyramid of the Rigidalstock. In 2018, this steep, sliding scree path had broken my endurance. In 2020, I marched up it with total control, my breathing rhythmic and steady.

When you reach the high rock band of the peak, you are faced with a choice. The standard route ascends via the eastern ridge. Seeking a true athletic challenge, I chose the spectacular, technical Rigidalstockwand - the western face route rated K4.

The Face Climb: Unlike heavily engineered beginner paths, the iron rungs here are minimal. The trail configuration forces you to rely on direct, active friction placements, pressing the sticky rubber soles of your approach shoes directly onto the steep limestone slabs while using the steel cable primarily for safety clipping. 

The exposure is sweeping and magnificent, looking straight down into the massive, sun-filled Brunni basin below.

Eagle's Eye Cave (Adleraugenhoehle): 

This is the undisputed artistic highlight of the route. The steel cable leads directly through a natural, deep cavern carved cleanly into the sheer mountain wall. Climbing up through the dark, cool, rocky belly of the peak and emerging through the upper roof onto the blindingly bright upper face is one of the most unique vertical experiences in Central Switzerland.

A Common Peak Push: Immediately after exiting the upper face, the Rigidalstockwand reaches a junction where it meets the Eastern Ridge route. From this shared shoulder, both routes merge into a single, common cable line for the final, shared vertical push to the summit.

Summit Glory & a 360-Degree Horizon

Pushing up those final vertical steps, I reached the massive summit cross at 2,593 MASL. In 2018, the mountain had hidden itself away, but today the weather was absolutely flawless. Standing on the summit of the Rigidalstock on a great day gives you a front-row seat to the true giants of Central Switzerland. Looking directly across the valley, the view is completely dominated by the massive, ice-capped Titlis Massif (3,238m) and its gleaming glacier. 

Slicing through the horizon to the west, you can trace the razor-sharp ridge of the Graustock (2,661m), while the rugged, tooth-like limestone peaks of the Gross Saettelistock (2,637m) cut into the sky to the northeast. 

The atmosphere at the top was incredible. I spent some time chatting with some fantastic fellow climbers on the summit, soaking in the endless views. The haunting memory of turning back two years prior completely vanished. It was pure redemption.

Step 3: Closing the Loop - the Rigidalstockgrat Descent (K3)

A great day on the rock requires a professional exit strategy. Because of the layout of the peak, your descent requires a bit of backtracking. First, you must down-climb the exact same shared vertical peak section from the summit cross back down to the upper junction shoulder.

Once back at the junction, you choose your descent path. It is standard mountain protocol and a good safety rule that you are not supposed to return via the hard western route. Instead, the correct move is to close the loop by down-climbing the classic eastern ridge route, the Rigidalstockgrat (K3 / Intermediate).

The Ridge Descent: 

This eastern ridge line is incredibly scenic. It offers sheer, airy vertical drops on both sides of your boots as you trace the jagged rocky spine of the mountain. It feels like walking a high-wire between two worlds as you slowly descend back toward the high alpine meadows. 

While the K4 face is adult territory, this K3 ridge route is suitable for confident teenagers and older children under the close supervision of an experienced adult. This would then become an out and back route.

The Scramble Flow: 

Because I felt secure and the alpine terrain was dry, I moved down a significant portion of the ridge without clipping my lanyards into the steel wire (which is not continuous anyway). For an experienced, confident climber with good balance, this section functions beautifully as a minor, hands-on rock scramble (Grade I/II) or a demanding T3/T3+ alpine hiking route rather than a pulling-intensive via ferrata.

Trail Etiquette: The Brunnistoeckli Problem

As I neared the base of the trail on the way to the Brunnihuette, I originally toyed with the ambitious idea of down-climbing the short Brunnistoeckli (K2) VF to squeeze in a fourth route for the day. 

However, I ran into a major logistical hurdle: the line was completely bottlenecked with families and beginner groups moving upward. More importantly, the Brunnistoeckli is strictly designated by local mountain guides as a one-way uphill route. 

Attempting to descend against a steady stream of traffic on a narrow wire rope, vertical ladders, or a flexible suspension bridge is dangerous, poor trail etiquette, and strictly discouraged in the climbing community. Recognizing the hazard, I made the seasoned-climber decision to bypass it and walk cleanly down the trail to the Brunnihuette.

Winding Down: Panorama Trail to Ristis

After celebrating with a well-earned cold beer on the sun terrace of the Brunnihuette SAC, I decided to skip the chairlift down. My legs were feeling great, my energy was buzzing, and the afternoon sun was painting the valley in deep gold. I set off on foot around the local lake and then along the famous Brunni Panorama Trail (Panoramaweg) to complete the loop back to Ristis.

This panoramic walk is a tutorial in alpine topography. Stretching roughly 3km downhill, the dirt and gravel track snakes gently away from Lake Haerzlisee, weaving smoothly through high wildflower meadows and past the rustic, wood-hewn huts of Rigidalalp.

Every sweeping turn of the path treated me to a pristine view of Mount Hahnen slicing into the sky. Walking it slowly with my forearms fully relaxed was the ultimate recovery routine, turning the intense physical strain of two back-to-back K4 climbing routes into a smooth, therapeutic cruise down to the Ristis cable car station.

Valley: the Year-Round Beauty of Lake Eugenisee

Upon arriving back at the valley floor, the transition from the jagged mountain heights back to civilization felt complete, but I wasn't quite ready to end the day. Instead of hopping straight onto the shuttle bus, I took a ten-minute stroll from the town center down to the banks of Lake Eugenisee.

Tucked quietly right at the entrance of the village, this beautiful storage lake is highly revered by local fly-fishermen who line the shores casting for fresh brook and rainbow trout. Walking the easy, flat 1-km asphalt-and-dirt loop path around the water was the perfect way to ground myself after looking down into so many thousands of vertical feet of empty space. See my other articles on the lakes & waterfalls hikes.

With the Zittergrat and the Rigidalstock safely completed, 3 out of 5 of Engelberg's Vertical 5 Challenge were officially in the bag. The mountain had taught me its lessons, and this time, I had answered the call.

Safety Note on Weight: Considering the overhangs on the Zittergrat and the cave to Rigdalstock, it makes sense to keep the pack as light as possible, but there’s no mountain hut up here so you need to take everything you will need for 3 VF routes - a tricky balancing act...

This route was climbed by the author on 8th of August 2020. This is part 2 of my series of articles on the Engelberg Vertical 5 Challenge. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions.