Walking with the Walsers: A Journey Through Time Over the Strela Pass
High above the bustling, historic resort town of Davos, a different kind of history whispers through the alpine meadows. If you step off the train at Davos Platz station, you are not just starting a hike—you are stepping onto a centuries-old highway carved out by medieval pioneers.
By connecting directly from the railway to the historic Schatzalp funicular, you leave the modern valley floor behind and ascend toward the "Magic Mountain" made famous by author Thomas Mann.
This trail, stretching from the funicular's upper station over the "witch's" Strela Pass and down into the secluded valley of Langwies near Arosa, is a living museum of Swiss Alpine history. Here is how to experience this incredible journey through time…
Route at a Glance
Start: Davos Platz Station to the Schatzalp Funicular (1,861 m / 6,106 ft at the top station).
Destination: Summit: Strela Pass (2,352 m / 7,716 feet) then Langwies Station (1,317 m / 4,321 feet).
Distance: Approx. 19 km (11.8 miles)
Hiking Time: 5.5 to 6.5 hours (one-way, excluding breaks)
Elevation Gained: +790 m (+2,591 feet).
Elevation Lost: -1,400 m (-4,363 feet) of total descent.
Difficulty: Moderate (demanding due to cumulative length and descent).
Historical Significance: Ancient Walser trade and migration route.
Stage 1: Funicular Ascent & the Botanical Wonders of Schatzalp
The expedition begins at Davos Platz railway station. From here, a short walk brings you to the valley station of the Schatzalp Funicular (Schatzalpbahn). Operating since 1899, this charming cable railway whisks you up the steep mountainside in just four minutes.
In the early 20th century, this very ridge was the epicenter of luxury tuberculosis sanatoriums. Wealthy patients from all over Europe rode these early cars seeking the "cure" in the crisp alpine air.
Before pushing upward toward the rocky pass, it is well worth taking a stroll through the breathtaking Alpinum Schatzalp. This historic botanical garden sits right beside the upper station and showcases over 3,500 species of alpine plants gathered from mountain ranges across the globe, from the local Alps to the Himalayas. Winding past vibrant edelweiss, blue gentians, and rare mountain flora, it offers a beautifully tranquil starting point before the terrain gets rugged.
As you leave the manicured flower paths and grand Art Nouveau buildings behind, the modern world quickly fades away. The trail shifts to a steady, rugged ascent through pine forests and sweeping fields. You are now walking the very paths used by the Walser people, a distinct Germanic group who migrated from the Valais region and settled these harsh, high-altitude lands in the 13th & 14th centuries.
Stage 2: Conquering the "Witch" - Guarded by Giants
As the trees give way to alpine pastures, the towering giants of the Plessur Alps dictate the view. Flanking your route directly to the right are the imposing twin massifs of Gross Schiahorn and Chlein Schiahorn. Their jagged limestone faces accompany you the entire way up, framing the skyline while the distinct, rugged pyramid of the Weissfluh dominates the horizon further north.
The trail steepens in a series of switchbacks toward the Strela Pass, a saddle nestled tightly between the Gross Schiahorn and Mount Strela itself. First documented in 1338, the name "Strela" derives from the Latin striga, meaning witch. Local folklore suggests the pass earned this eerie moniker due to the unpredictable, howling winds and sudden storms that could trap unsuspecting travelers in the winter months.
If you pause at the top and look back over your shoulder toward the south and east, the panorama opens completely, offering sweeping, breathtaking views of the Davos valley peaks - including Jakobshorn, Rinerhorn, and Pischahorn - reaching all the way back to the glittering glaciers of the Engadin.
Mercifully, today's travelers are greeted at the saddle by the Berghaus Strela (built in 1937), where you can sit on the terrace directly under these towering peaks.
Stage 3: Descending into the Lost World of Sapün
Crossing the pass feels like stepping through a time portal. As you leave the shadows of the Schiahorn and begin the steep descent through the rock gallery into the Haupter Tälli valley, a new set of mountains comes into view.
Standing prominently across the ravine to the south are the striking, grassy ridges of the Chüpfenflue and the sharp horn of the Haupterhorn. While the Davos side feels connected to modern tourism, the descent into the Sapün valley is a pristine capsule of medieval life.
As you wind your way down, you will pass Berggasthaus Heimeli, a beautifully preserved, 300-year-old Walser wooden house that still serves weary hikers. Scattered across the green slopes are Schustra - ancient, sun-blackened timber barns used by Walser farmers to store hay.
The architecture here is unique: heavy logs interlocking at the corners, built to withstand centuries of heavy winter snows without a single iron nail.
Stage 4: Arrival in Langwies and its Engineering Marvel
The final leg of the hike follows the rushing Sapünerbach stream down into the quiet village of Langwies. When the Walsers first arrived here in the 1300s, they cleared the dense wilderness to establish self-sustaining farming communities.
As you reach your final destination, the ancient past collides with 20th-century ambition. Looming large over the gorge where the Plessur and Sapün rivers meet is the magnificent Langwieser Viaduct. Completed in 1914, this 284m long railway bridge was a worldwide sensation. It was the world’s first reinforced concrete railway bridge of its scale. Standing 62 m high, its elegant concrete arches cut a stunning silhouette against the jagged alpine backdrop.
Today, you can stand at the Viaduct Museum Langwies at the station to marvel at how this concrete giant became a "bridge to the world" for an isolated valley. From the station, you can seamlessly catch the Rhaetian Railway back home via Chur.
Alpine Food Notes: Tasting on the Trail
No Walser hike is complete without indulging in the hearty, high-altitude flavors designed to sustain mountain pioneers. Keep an eye out for these local specialties at the mountain huts along your descent:
Capuns: The ultimate Graubünden comfort food. These are savory spätzle-dough dumplings packed with bits of dried meat (like Bündnerfleisch), wrapped in chard leaves, and simmered in a rich broth of milk and melted cheese.
Alpine Rösti: Golden, pan-fried shredded potatoes topped heavily with local mountain cheese, fried eggs, and crispy bacon—best enjoyed on the panoramic terrace at Berghaus Strela.
Walser Dried Meats & Cheese: Platter starters featuring thinly sliced, air-dried beef & locally cured sausages, paired perfectly with hard, nut-flavored cheeses aged in the valley.
Larch Ice Cream & Nut Tarts: End your journey with a slice of traditional Bündner Nusstorte (caramelized walnut tart) or sample a scoop of unique, local larch pine ice cream for a true taste of the surrounding forest.
Tips for Modern Time-Travelers
Check the Funicular: The Schatzalp funicular generally runs every 15-30 mins, but ensure you check the seasonal timetables before leaving Davos Platz.
Pack for the "Witch": True to its historical name, the weather at Strela Pass can change rapidly. Always pack a windbreaker, a warm layer, and a waterproof jacket.
This hike was done by the Author on 20th of July 2025. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions.
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