Beyond Vertical: Conquering the Tritt Staircase from Schatzalp to Langweis
The air at 1,862m is crisp, carrying the faint scent of pine and old-world romance. Stepping off the historic Schatzalp Funicular from Davos Platz, you are instantly enveloped by history.
Ahead lies the Art Nouveau facade of the Hotel Schatzalp, the legendary setting for Thomas Mann’s “The Magic Mountain”. Most visitors stop here for coffee & cake, and then take a stroll through the well manicured botanical gardens…
But you aren't most visitors. You are here to bridge two legendary Swiss valleys by conquering one of the most thrilling, vertigo-inducing hiking trails in the Graubünden Alps - a route walked by medieval pioneers centuries before it became a playground for modern adventurers.
Echoes of the Walser Pioneers
To walk this path is to retrace the footsteps of the early Walser settlers, a resilient, Germanic mountain people who migrated from the Valais region in the 13th & 14th centuries. Seeking freedom and arable land, they crossed high-alpine passes to colonize isolated valleys like Schanfigg and Davos.
For centuries, this rugged corridor was a crucial trading and high-pasture route. The early Walser people braved these jagged vertical gaps with livestock and heavy packs, long before modern safety cables or groomed trails even existed. Today, portions of this hike follow the historic Walserweg and Stage 2 of the Mittelbünden-Panoramaweg, acting as a living museum of Switzerland's alpine history.
Phase 1: From Literary Waterfalls to Alpine Solitude
The journey begins on a deceptive note of tranquil beauty. Setting off from the Schatzalp mountain station, you follow the gentle, pine-shaded path of the famous Waterfall Trail (Wasserfallrunde). The sound of the rushing Guggerbach stream fills the air as you pass Thomas Mann Square.
Just as the trail begins its loop back toward the hotel, your true route reveals itself. Look for the trail markers pointing toward Podestatenalp and Lochalp, and keep left. Instantly, the casual strollers vanish. The path turns sharply upward, cutting horizontally across the rugged lower terraces of the mountain.
To your right, the southern slopes of the Schiahorn (2,709 m) loom over you like a wall of gray stone. Looking left across the valley, the broad ridge of the Jakobshorn (2,590 m) keeps pace with you, a solitary companion in this vast alpine theater.
Phase 2: The Push to Latschüelfurgga Pass
As you clear the treeline past Podestatenalp, the gentle meadows transform into raw, high-alpine wilderness. Bypassing the traditional Strelapass route (see other blog article), your path pushes directly northwest under the shadow of the Chüpfenflue (2,658 m).
The incline sharpens dramatically. Your boots grip the loose scree as you tackle the steep, relentless switchbacks up to the Latschüelfurgga Pass (2,409 m). Reaching the windswept saddle is an unforgettable milestone.
Standing on this narrow geographical knife-edge, you cross the invisible border between the glitz of Davos and the wild, remote frontier of the Schanfigg valley. The wind howls through the gap, and ahead lies the main event…
Phase 3: Descending "The Tritt" — 220 Steps Into the Void
From the pass, you snake through the stark, rocky bowl of Hinter Latschüel until the earth suddenly drops away entirely. You have arrived at The Tritt (2,326 m).
Historically, this 200m vertical cliff face was a treacherous, terrifying barrier. Early Walser settlers had to navigate its sheer walls with extreme caution, often constructing rudimentary wooden ladders or carving footholds into the stone to help move produce or livestock. Today, Swiss engineering has "defused" the drop with a breathtaking collection of steel and wood: a skeletal staircase of 220 steps bolted directly into the sheer, jagged cliff side.
Stepping onto the first grating requires a quick breath and a steady pulse. The steps are open, allowing you to look directly into the canyon below (note: this makes the route difficult for some dogs). If necessary you can use the thick steel cable anchored to the rock for balance, as you descend step-by-step down this hidden mountain ladder.
Phase 4: Time Travel in the Walser Village of Medergen
Reaching the bottom of the Tritt, the jagged limestone of the Chüpfer Täli gorge abruptly surrenders to rolling, emerald-green alpine pastures. The sudden shift in scenery is jarringly beautiful. The trail winds along the mountain flank, with some amazing views on both sides, guiding you into Medergen (2,000 m). This is not a replica or model village; it is a living postcard from the 14th century…
Medergen is an authentic Walser alpine settlement consisting of sun-blackened timber huts crafted by centuries of alpine weather. With no electricity or running water in the original structures, it feels completely frozen in time. Take a seat on the sun-baked terrace of the rustic Berggasthaus Alpenrose. A plate of local alpine cheese and a cold drink under the shadow of the Mederger Flue is the perfect reward for conquering the steep cliff.
Choose Your Final Route: A LongDescent vs. The Ultimate Challenge
From Medergen, your journey reaches a literal and physical crossroads. You must now choose how your alpine saga ends:
Option A: The Classic Finale to Langwies Viaduct
The traditional route brings you down a long, knee-burning descent. The path plunges into the dense, cool canopy of the Ronggwald forest, tracking the roaring Sapüner Bach stream down to the valley floor below. As the trees part, the final reward stretches across the horizon: the magnificent Langwieser Viaduct.
Spanning the deep gorge at 1,377m, this 284m-long railway bridge was a pioneering masterpiece of reinforced concrete when it was built in 1914. Watching the iconic, bright-red Rhaetian Railway train glide across this elegant concrete bow marks the cinematic conclusion to an epic traverse.
Option B: A Greater Challenge — The High Trail to Arosa
For seasoned mountaineers seeking a true test of endurance, take the high-altitude mountain trail splitting west toward the ski resort town of Arosa.
This alternative route greatly increases the physical demands. Rather than a steady descent, you will embark on a grueling, exposed high-alpine trail that contours beneath the jagged rock walls of the Schanfigg valley. You will cross high, wind-stripped ridges, navigate additional boulder fields, and tackle an extra 300+ m of elevation before finally descending into Arosa near the beautiful Obersee lake. It adds hours of intense physical exertion to the hike, but rewards with unparalleled views of the entire mountain range.
Trail Notes & Tips
Distance: ~15+ km (Langwies Route) | ~18.5 km (Arosa Variant)
Elevation Gain: +630/950 vertical meters
Time: 4.5 to 5.5 hours (Langwies) | 6.5 to 8 hours (Arosa Challenge)
Difficulty: T3 (Challenging Mountain Hike). Physically demanding with steep ascents, scree and some vertical exposure.
Requirements: Surefootedness and an freedom from vertigo are required for the Tritt staircase. NB: Do not attempt this trail in very wet, icy, or stormy weather (lightning risk).
Post-Hike Fuel: Dining in Langwies
If you choose the classic route down to the Langwies Viaduct, as I did, your culinary journey doesn't have to end at the Viaduct train station. Langwies offers excellent options to rest your tired legs and celebrate the trek before catching your train:
Gasthaus Bahnhof: Located right by the station, this cozy spot is highly convenient for a pre-departure meal. They serve hearty, authentic Swiss fare & refreshing drinks.
Gasthaus Strela: Tucked slightly into the village, this traditional guesthouse is renowned for its warm hospitality and rich local specialties. It is the perfect place to sit back, tuck into a steaming plate of Capuns or a rich fondue. [PS: Don’t forget to check out the lovely village church.]
This route was hiked by the Author on the 28th of June 2025. See also my other article on the nearby Strelapass… You can contact me by email for photos or to ask questions.
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