Blog Archive

Sunday, 13 September 2026

Arosa Winter Hike: Climbing the Weisshorn

Conquering the Weisshorn: Arosa’s Most Thrilling Winter Hike

Imagine standing on a windswept alpine summit, the crisp mountain air biting your face, while a 360-degree panorama of over 400 jagged Swiss peaks stretches out to the horizon.

This is a suoerb winter loop around Arosa. Taking you from the lively ski village, along the snowy boundaries of the solar system, straight up to the stark beauty of the Weisshorn, and then down through a frozen wonderland of reservoirs and lakes, this route is a winter hiker's dream...

Route at a Glance

  • Distance: ~21 km (13 miles) but can be shortened to ~18 km by using the local buses.

  • Duration: 6 to 7 hours of active hiking

  • Difficulty: Strenuous (Steep ridge climbing & high-altitude winter conditions)

  • Elevation Gain/Loss: +/-900m

Getting There: Iconic Trains & Wild History

Getting to the trailhead is an adventure in itself. The easiest and most spectacular way to reach Arosa is by public transport from Chur, Switzerland's oldest city. 

Hop onto the iconic red Arosa Line (Arosabahn) operated by the Rhaetian Railway (RhB). The train departs from in front of Chur station hourly and climbs over 1,000 meters in just one hour. It winds through city streets like a tram before plunging into the wild Schanfigg Valley, crossing the breathtaking, high-domed Langwieser Viaduct before climbing the hill and pulling into Arosa.

A Feat of Engineering History

When the railway line opened in 1914, the Langwieser Viaduct was an absolute sensation. Spanning 284 m long, it was the first railway bridge in the world built out of reinforced concrete, completely redefining modern bridge architecture. 

The Anti-Car Rebellion

Long before Arosa was easily accessible, it was a remote, isolated settlement founded by the Walser people in the 14th century. When the tourist boom hit in the early 1900s, Arosa fiercely guarded its mountain peace. Between 1907 and 1925, the community repeatedly voted to ban all cars from the valley entirely. For decades, if you wanted to come to Arosa, the railway line was your only lifeline to the outside world, preserving the town's pristine mountain air - much like Murren and Zermatt.

Pro-Tip (Shortening the Route)

Once you arrive at Arosa, you can skip the steep uphill walk to the official trailhead. Just jump straight onto the free local winter bus (Line 1), which shuttles you directly from the station up to the Pratschli hotel and trailhead. 

This saves your legs a few kilometers of pavement tramping, leaving you with a delightful, flat victory lap around the Obersee Lake right by the station to close out your day instead!

Essential Gear Checklist

While this loop uses Arosa's incredibly well-groomed winter hiking trails, do not let the smooth paths fool you. The extreme elevation changes the game. 

Because the trail becomes exceptionally steep on the final push to the Weisshorn summit and then down the exposed ridges, standard winter boots will not cut it. You need targeted traction and protection:

  • Micro-Spikes (Mandatory Minimum): Even on groomed snow, steep sections become slick and hard-packed from wind and ski traffic. A pair of slip-on rubber-and-chain micro-spikes for your boots will keep you from sliding on the mountain's upper ridges.

  • Trekking Poles with Snow Baskets: Useful for maintaining balance on the steep descents and taking the pressure off your knees.

  • Sturdy, Waterproof Winter Hiking Boots: Make sure they have a rigid sole to support micro-spikes and good ankle support. 

  • Layered Clothing & Wind Protection: The summit is highly exposed. Pack a windproof outer shell, insulated gloves, a warm beanie, and UV-blocking sunglasses to protect against intense alpine snow glare.

Trail Safety: Share the Mountain

Because Arosa is a world-class ski resort, parts of this winter hiking network cross or briefly merge with active ski slopes &/or sledding runs. Parts of the route are therefore mixed-use. 

Always stay alert and keep strictly to one side of the trail to allow downhill skiers and snowboarders plenty of room to pass safely. When crossing active ski runs - particularly on the descents around the reservoir - look up the hill first, move quickly across the designated path, and don't stop to rest in the middle of a ski lane. 

The Journey: Step-by-Step

Phase 1: Walking Among the Stars

The adventure officially begins at Pratschli. Instead of a standard forest climb, you jump directly onto the famed Arosa Planet Trail (Planetenweg). In the winter, the local trail crews groom this path into a beautiful, snow-packed boulevard. 

You will trek past scale models of the planets, where every meter you walk represents a million kilometers in space. The path opens up across sun-drenched alpine meadows as you clear the orbit of the outer planets, reaching the magnificent panoramic lookout at Rot Tritt before linking up with the trail to Scheidegg (2,106m).

Phase 2: The Razor's Edge to the Weisshorn

From Scheidegg, the trees vanish completely, replaced by wide-open snowfields. The air grows noticeably thinner and colder as you march steadily toward the Sattelhutte (2,401m). 

From the hut, the real challenge begins. The final push to the Weisshorn Summit (2,653m) is a thrill-seeker's delight. The trail narrows into a steep alpine gradients. With every step, the wind howls a little louder, and the drop-offs showcase the sheer scale of the Graubunden Alps. Pull out your trekking poles, snap on your micro-spikes, and make the final push...

```

      â– Weisshorn Summit (2,653m) - 360° Alpine Panorama

     / \

    /   \  <-- Thrilling Ridge Climb (Spikes Needed)

   /     \

  /       \__ Sattelhutte (2,401m)

 /           \

/             \__ Scheidegg ”Rot Tritt” Planet Trail (Start)

```

Phase 3: The Roof of Graubunden

Reaching the summit is a moment of pure adrenaline. The Weisshorn is the crown jewel of the Plessur Alps, and on a clear day, offers an unhindered look at more than 400 mountain peaks across Switzerland and neighboring countries. 

From the viewing deck, the snowy peaks feel close enough to touch. Look south to spot the glaciated peaks of the Piz Bernina massif scraping the sky. Scan the surrounding ridgelines to trace the rugged borders toward Davos, Lenzerheide & Chur.

Phase 4: Descending to the Ice Kingdom & the Sleeping Bears

After catching your breath, face the thrilling descent by backtracking down the steep summit ridge to the Sattelhutte, leaning on your poles for stability. 

From the hut, break away from your ascent path and drop southwest into a dramatic, sun-shadowed valley bowl. Ahead lies the Hintere Hutte reservoir, a massive artificial lake that transforms in winter into a stark, perfectly flat sheet of ice, framed by the towering mountain walls. 

As you trek safely around its edges, you will pass the boundary of the Arosa Barenland (Bear Sanctuary). The spectacular elevated adventure walkway is closed for the winter to ensure the tranquil environment necessary for these rescued animals.

Phase 5: The Mythical Schwellisee to the Finish

Leaving the reservoir, descend further to join the quiet trail toward the Schwellisee (1,933m). In winter, this legendary alpine lake sleeps completely frozen beneath the shadow of the mighty, jagged Erzhorn peak.

Your loop closes with a gentle downhill stroll through Innerarosa. Hike past the Bergkirchli, a tiny wooden mountain chapel built in 1492, before navigating back to the bustling village. If you took the local bus at the start, use your saved energy for a relaxing, flat stroll around the frozen banks of the Obersee, ending your epic loop right at the doorstep of the Arosa Train Station. 

Want More? Exploring Arosa’s Winter Trail Network

The Weisshorn Loop is just one gem in a spectacular network. If you have extra days, Arosa offers over 60 km of groomed winter hiking & snowshoeing paths. Keep an eye out for these other official, pink-signposted routes:

  • Squirrel Path: Starting from the village, this short, family-friendly trail meanders through snowy pine woods. The local red squirrels are famously trusting - bring raw hazelnuts or walnuts, and they will climb right onto your hand to eat.

  • Arlenwald Winter Trail: A beautiful 6 km loop that winds through the quiet, snow-heavy Arlenwald forest before cutting back through the lower ski area.

  • Hornli to Innerarosa Path: Take the Hornli-Express cable car up to the Hornli Ridge, then enjoy a stunning, purely downhill 5 km winter hike back to the valley floor. It offers exceptional views of the Urden Valley without the leg-burning ascent.

  • Pratschalp Winter Trail: A sunny, high-alpine balcony walk that looks directly down over the cross-country ski tracks of Maran and the historic, frozen Unter Pratschsee lake. 

Fueling the Adventure: Food & Drink Stops

A grueling winter trek requires top-tier alpine fuel. Here's where to stop along the route:

  • Summit Treat: 360° Panorama Restaurant Weisshorn. Where: Right at the Weisshorn peak. Vibe: A modern, futuristic glass pavilion designed by architect Tilla Theus.

  • Sun Terrace: Sattelhutte. Where: The midpoint junction before/after the summit ridge. Vibe: A rustic, energetic mountain hut with a massive outdoor sun deck.

  • Historic Pitstop: Alpenblick. Where: On the descent path through Innerarosa. Vibe: Cozy, traditional Walser-style wooden interiors.

  • Lakeside Finale: Cafe am See.  Where: Right across from the train station looking directly over the lake. Vibe: A beloved local bakery, cafe, & confectionery with a magnificent terrace.

This route was hiked by the Author on the 3rd of February 2024. See my other articles for hikes in this area in summer. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions.


Hiking with Witches: the Hexenplatte Route in Sedrun

Hiking with Witches: The Legendary Hexenplatte Route in Sedrun

Tucked away in the dramatic peaks of Graubunden lies one of Switzerland’s best-kept alpine secrets. If you are tired of the crowded tourist tracks and are looking for a trail that mixes nice climbs, jaw-dropping views, and a heavy dose of ancient alpine folklore, then get ready. We are heading to Sedrun to tackle the Hexenplatte - the "Witches' Plate."

This challenging route takes you high above the Val Tujetsch to a mysterious, perfectly flat rock where legends say mountain witches used to hold their midnight dances. Intrigued? Here is everything you need to know to experience this mystical trail for yourself…

The Gateway: Historic Sedrun & Val Tujetsch

Your journey begins in Sedrun, a charming alpine village nestled in the sun-drenched Val Tujetsch. For centuries, this valley was isolated, shaped by Romanesque culture and the fierce peaks surrounding it. The locals here still speak Sursilvan, a rare and beautiful dialect of the Rhaeto-Romansch language. 

Before the advent of modern tourism, Sedrun was a rugged farming community where life revolved around the seasons and the church. Because the mountains were so imposing, early valley dwellers used folklore to explain the raw, unpredictable power of nature around them. As you walk past the traditional wooden barns in the village, you can practically feel the history whispering from the timbers. (Today it is becoming more of a fancy ski resort destination in winter which is a little sad.)

Getting There: Public Transport Access

One of the best things about hiking in Switzerland is how effortlessly you can reach remote trailheads. Sedrun is exceptionally public-transport-friendly:

  • The Train Route: You can take the famous Matterhorn Gotthard Railway directly to the Sedrun station. 

  • From the West (Andermatt): The train climbs a spectacular route over the Oberalp Pass.

  • From the East (Chur): Connect via Disentis, where you will board the local mountain railway for the final short stretch to Sedrun. 

  • The trail begins right at the station, meaning you don’t need a car to experience this hike.

Route Summary: Classic vs. Lake Extension

  • Classic Circular Route: 11.5 kilometers (7.3 miles) | ~4.5 hours | +800 meters (2,950 feet) elevation gain and loss. Classified as a challenging T2/3 mountain hike. Starts and ends at Sedrun Station.

  • Hexensee Alpine Extension: 14+ kilometers (8.9 miles) | ~6 hours | 1,100 meters (3,600 feet) elevation gain. Classified as a T3/4 difficult alpine route traversing almost pathless, rocky terrain.

The Route: From Valley Floor to Alpine Heights

Leaving Sedrun station, the trail starts gently, cutting west through vibrant green hay meadows. Enjoy the flat ground while it lasts. Soon, the path plunges into the L'Ondadusa valley and begins a relentless, zigzagging climb upward.

You will sweat your way through a dense forest up to Pegn dil Capi. The shade of the trees is a welcome relief as your legs conquer the first few hundred meters of elevation. Reaching the tree line, an inviting bench allows you to pause for breath and enjoy the striking view of the Val Tujetsch and the sprawling Medel Glacier across the valley.

As you break past the forest, the landscape expands into a sea of high-altitude flora. Depending on the season, you will hike through blooming alpine roses, purple heather, and wild blueberry or cowberry bushes. Keep your eyes trained on the jagged crags above; this rugged alpine terrain is an ideal habitat for native fauna. Shy chamois frequently cross the trail, while marmots whistle from the scree fields.

Arriving at the Hexenplatte (Platta dil Barlot)

Perched high on the wide-open Alp Caschle pasture sits the crown jewel of the hike: the Hexenplatte. In the local language, it is called Platta dil Barlot. When you see it, it feels completely out of place. It is a massive, perfectly flat rock sitting directly amidst a rugged mountain slope:

  • The Legend: Local lore says a giant spider carried this massive slab from the opposite Alp Culmatsch across the valley on a single, impossibly strong thread. 

  • The Witch Trials: During the darker periods of European history, valleys like Tujetsch were rife with superstition. Locals believed that witches gathered on this exact rock under the full moon to dance and brew fierce storms. 

  • The Tradition: Today's hikers have turned the eerie history into a fun ritual. Tradition dictates that when you reach the stone, you must stand on it and do a quick dance to appease the mountain spirits before continuing your journey!

An Alpine Extension: Up to Hexensee (Lai dalla Stria)

If your legs still have some energy left, don’t turn back at the pastures. You can extend the route into a more rugged alpine loop by taking the blue-and-white T4 alpine trail to Hexensee, known locally as Lai dalla Stria (the Lake of the Witches). 

The terrain quickly transitions from grassy slopes to rocky, pathless wilderness. As you climb higher, the dramatic peaks of Wittenalpstock and Oberalpstock unveil themselves. Reaching the highest ridge, the Hexensee lies before you. This pristine, mirror-smooth alpine lake is nestled among bright rocks, offering jaw-dropping glass-like reflections of the surrounding mountain panorama. This area is also part of the famous Gotthard Crystal Trek, and sharp-eyed hikers might even spot small quartz crystals gleaming along the way.

The return trail loops down past massive wooden avalanche barriers (Stavel Da Caschle) and drops back into the valley floor. 

Post-Hike Food Options in Sedrun

Once back in Sedrun, reward your efforts by diving into the local culinary scene. Val Tujetsch is famous for hearty, traditional Graubunden cuisine:

  • Restaurant Hotel La Cruna: Step into their historic Bundnerstube, which dates back to 1796. It is the perfect spot to try authentic regional specialties.

  • Hotel Kruzli Sedrun: Known for its cozy, local atmosphere, this spot is highly recommended for a post-hike comforting meal.

Other Great Hikes Around Sedrun

If you are sticking around the region for a few days, the Disentis-Sedrun area offers incredible variety:

  • The Classic: Sedrun to Disentis (Senda Sursilvana): For a completely different vibe, this 5.6-mile family-friendly trail follows the sunny side of the valley. It passes through the ancient Walser village of Segnas - famed for its sun-darkened wooden houses - and crosses the striking Bugnei Railway Viaduct. It ends at the historic Benedictine Monastery in Disentis. 

  • The Source of the Rhine (Tomasee / Lai da Tuma): Sedrun sits right at the headwaters of one of Europe's greatest rivers. Starting from the top of the Oberalp Pass, you can take a nice trail up to Tomasee, the official source of the Rhine, cradled in a high alpine amphitheater. 

Conclusion

The Hexenplatte and its sister trails aren't just physical challenges; they are a walk through time, culture and alpine myth. If you want a hiking experience that leaves you with tired legs and a great story to tell, this valley is the one to beat...

This route was hiked by the Author on the 21st of October 2025 - one of my last before retirement. See also my other articles about routes in this area, both summer and winter. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions.


Saturday, 12 September 2026

Mini Klettersteig Saas-Grund: a Climber’s Guide

Mini Klettersteig (VF) in Saas-Grund: a Climber’s Guide

If you love the rush of clipping onto a steel cable but don’t have a full day to spare for a massive peak, then there's a hidden playground waiting for you any time of year in the Valais. Tucked right against the rock walls of the Saas Valley is the Mini Klettersteig/Via Ferrata Saas-Grund

Do not let the word "mini" fool you. This short, practice route punches well above its weight, serving up steep drops, creative obstacles, and a unique treasure-hunt aesthetic that begins and ends with historic village paths.

Route Summary

  • Start/End: Saas-Grund, Bergbahnen (Bus Stop / Cable Car Station)

  • Difficulty: K3 C (Moderate) with short slightly harder sequences

  • Elevation: ~70 vertical meters of climbing (~1,700m peak)

  • Time: 15-min approach, 30-min climb, 20-min descent (approx. 1.5 to 2 hours incl. the key)

  • Gear: Via ferrata set (harness, energy-absorbing lanyards, helmet, gloves), sturdy hiking boots, and resting system if required.

Background: The Cradle of the Saas Valley

To truly appreciate this climb, you have to understand the ground you are standing on. The Saas Valley (Saastal) is a dramatic alpine trench carved by the Saaser Vispa river, split from the famous neighboring Mattertal by the immense Mischabel massif. 

For centuries, Saas-Grund was the absolute epicenter of life in this valley. Until a wave of municipal splits in 1893, the villages of Almagell, Balen, Fee, and Grund were all a single parish, and Saas-Grund held the valley's only church.

While nearby Saas-Fee eventually exploded into a world-famous, car-free tourist hub higher up the slopes, Saas-Grund proudly retained its identity as the rustic, foundational heart of the valley. It was the launching pad where early 19th-century mountaineers first forged ice picks and hired local guides to conquer the surrounding 4,000-meter giants. 

Step 1: Arriving via the Scenic Bus Route

Your journey begins on public transit. The trip into the valley is an attraction in its own right. Board the iconic Swiss PostBus (Line 511) from the main train hub in Visp. As the bright yellow bus winds its way up from the valley floor, you are treated to a spectacular, cinematic journey. 

The bus hugs narrow cliffside roads, thunders through rock-hewn tunnels, and crosses dramatic bridges while the Vispa river rages deep in the gorge below. Pine forests slowly give way to sheer granite walls, and as you approach your stop at Saas-Grund, Bergbahnen, the towering 4,000-m peaks dominate the sky, providing a breathtaking, high-alpine backdrop.

Step 2: The Quest for the Key

Because this route is specifically designed and maintained as a training ground, it is the great place to build & practice your VF skills. If you don't yet own gear, you can rent a full set directly from Zurbriggen Sport or the local mountain guide offices right in the village. 

Before starting the approach, you have a another mission to complete. The entry to the route is secured by a locked chain and padlock to prevent unsupervised use. To climb it, you need to rent the key:

  • Cost: CHF 20 rental fee.

  • Deposit: CHF 30 cash (refundable when you return the key).

  • Where: Walk over to the valley ticket office of the Hohsaas Cable Car or swing by Zurbriggen Sport.

The Guided Option & the Abseil

If you are a complete beginner or want to add an extra shot of adrenaline, you can book a local guide. Going with a guide bypasses the need to rent a key on your own, and it unlocks an exclusive, hidden feature of the route: the thrilling 40-m abseil (rappel) from the top of Tower Rock. This massive, airy drop down the sheer cliff face is only accessible under professional guidance and is the ultimate way to cap off a training session.

Step 3: An Approach Steeped in Sacred History

From the cable car station, gear up and follow the trail markers heading toward the edge of the village. Your path quickly merges with the opening stretch of the historic Kapellenweg (Chapel Trail).

Built between 1708 and 1711, the Kapellenweg is a legendary pilgrimage route connecting Saas-Grund to Saas-Fee. It features 15 beautifully crafted wayside shrines representing the Mysteries of the Rosary, housing roughly one hundred antique, polychromed wooden figures that depict scenes from the life of Christ. 

Historically, before a paved road was finally blasted through in 1951, this trail was the primary lifeline between the upper and lower villages - hiked by locals, traders & mule convoys carrying luggage.

As you walk the initial steps of this path, the ornate, whitewashed stone shrines create a deeply peaceful, historical contrast to the high-adrenaline vertical challenge ahead. Within minutes, the trail branches, and the manicured village landscape abruptly gives way to a raw, towering cliffside of grey gneiss.

Step 4: Unlocking the Rock Face

Follow the trail right to the base of the rock wall. There, you will find the first obstacle: a sturdy metal ladder dangling, bound tightly to the rock face by a heavy steel chain and padlock.

Slip the key into the lock, snap the chain free, and watch the entry appear. Make sure to clip your lanyards onto the safety cable immediately before taking your first steps up. Note it's a little difficult to set up the ladder by yourself so be careful if you do this!

Step 5: The Climb - Small Scale, Big Exposure

Once you scale the entry ladder, the route hits you with immediate, steep climbing. Rated K3 B/C (moderate) with a few punchy harder C sequences, this path is designed to test your footwork & strength:

  • The Vertical Wall: The route wastes no time, taking you straight up 70 vertical meters of exposed rock faces. steel cables guide your way, but you will need to actively search for natural footholds on the textured stone.

  • The Obstacles: The creators of the route kept things highly engaging. You will traverse narrow, exposed wooden beams bolted directly into the cliff, cross airy ladders, and pull through short, muscular overhanging steps.

  • The Crest & The Flag: After about 20 to 30 mins of sustained, heart-pumping movement, you pull yourself over the final, spectacular lip of the crag. Waiting at the top (~1,700 m) is a Swiss flag waving in the wind. 

The Panoramic Skyline

From the summit, pause to look across the valley. The Mischabel range stands on full display. You can easily spot the jagged, icy pyramid of the Lenzspitze and the massive, broad crown of the Dom - which, at 4,545 m, is the highest mountain entirely within Switzerland. 

Turning slightly, the imposing massifs of the Weissmies and Lagginhorn frame the horizon, reminders of the massive mountaineering heritage that surrounds this valley floor.

Step 6: Return Journey & Stations of the Cross

The descent requires careful foot placement over a steeply graded dirt and scree channel. It quickly guides you downward to rejoin the upper section of the Kapellenweg. Your walk back is a literal journey through time as you track past the final Stations of the Cross. Each shrine along the descending trail acts as a visual milestone. 

As you descend, the rugged alpine trail slowly transitions into a path flanked by beautifully weathered, traditional wooden huts. These sun-blackened larch-wood barns (Stadel), perched on circular stone stilts to keep mice out, are classic examples of old Valais architecture, standing today exactly as they did centuries ago.

Step 7: Food & Celebration at the Finish

After locking the entry ladder back up and dropping off your key at the valley station to retrieve your deposit, it’s time to celebrate. 

For a well-deserved post-climb treat, walk over to the Tea-Room Restaurant Saaser Backerei. It is the perfect spot to sit outside, look back up at the cliff face you just conquered, and enjoy a slice of homemade Apfelstrudel or a Swiss coffee. If you’ve worked up a bigger appetite, head into the rustic dining room at Hotel-Restaurant Bergheimat to fuel up on traditional Valais food.

What's Next? The Prelude to Bigger Adventures

Because the Mini VF sits directly at the base of the valley's transit and lift systems, it serves as the perfect morning warm-up to much grander alpine itineraries:

  • The Hohenweg Extension: After returning your key at the ticket window, hop right onto the cable car up to Kreuzboden or Hohsaas. From there, you can launch straight into the famous Saaser Hohenweg, a high-altitude panoramic trail offering superb vistas across the 4,000m peaks.

  • The Jegihorn VF: If you are using the mini route for acclimatization, head straight up the mountain afterward. You can hike up to the Weissmies Hutte (SAC) to spend the night at 2,726 m. Sleeping at altitude sets you up perfectly to tackle the legendary, high-alpine Jegihorn Via Ferrata (K4/K5) the next morning...

  • The Mattmark Stausee (Seasonal Add-on): If you are visiting during the summer or early autumn, hop back on the PostBus and head to the very end of the valley to visit the historic Mattmark Reservoir.

  • This striking, turquoise reservoir features Europe's largest earthen embankment dam. It is a stunning, flat paradise for an easy post-climb stroll, surrounded by glaciers and historical exhibits detailing the valley's engineering past.

See my other articles on summer and winter hiking routes in this area… This route was climbed by the Author on  the 11th of August 2019. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions.

Arosa Winter Hike: Climbing the Weisshorn

Conquering the Weisshorn: Arosa’s Most Thrilling Winter Hike Imagine standing on a windswept alpine summit, the crisp mountain a...