Spinas to Preda: Hiking Val Bever & Fuorcla Crap Alv Pass
Deep beneath the rugged peaks of the Grisons Alps, a modern engineering miracle has been fully realized. The new Albula Tunnel II - a state-of-the-art marvel running parallel to the original 120-year-old structure - seamlessly connects the Engadin valley with central Switzerland.
But to truly appreciate the sheer scale of what human ingenuity has built here, you shouldn't just ride the rails. You have to climb over them…
This unforgettable trek takes you from the remote outpost of Spinas, through pristine valleys, over a grueling alpine pass, and down to the tunnel's northern portal in Preda. Pack your boots: we are crossing the mighty Fuorcla Crap Alv!
Trail At-A-Glance
Distance: ~13 km (8 miles), or up to 20 km (12.4 miles) with the optional valley extension!
Elevation Gain: ~740 vertical meters - climbs up to 850+ meters with the extension.
Duration: 4-5 hours of pure hiking time (add 1.5 hours for the optional extension).
Difficulty: Demanding alpine hike (T3 white-red-white trail)
Best Season: Late June to early October
Highlights: Spinas Station -> Val Bever -> Optional Valley Extension -> Fuorcla Crap Alv -> Lais digl Crap Alv -> Albula Pass -> Lai da Palpuogna -> Preda Station.
Echoes of the Past: A Brief History of the Albula Pass
Long before engineers started blasting through the granite, this region was a rugged frontier. For centuries, the Albula Pass served as a vital, treacherous trade route connecting northern and southern Europe. Packhorse drivers braved the unforgiving elements to transport wine, salt, and textiles over the mountains.
Everything changed at the turn of the 20th century. Between 1898 and 1903, thousands of workers undertook the monumental task of constructing the original Albula Tunnel. Hand-drilled through solid rock under extreme alpine winter conditions, its completion revolutionized travel and became a cornerstone of the Rhaetian Railway (RhB), eventually earning a spot as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Due to the natural aging of the century-old masonry, construction began on a brand-new, parallel tunnel in 2014. The high-tech Albula Tunnel II officially opened to passenger traffic on June 12, 2024, allowing modern trains to glide safely through the mountain at speeds up to 120 km/h. Today, the century-old original tunnel is completing its historic transition into a dedicated safety exit, fully connected to the new track via 12 newly bored cross-passages.
Note that this hike was done in 2023 before the new tunnel opened…
The Seasonal Window: When to Go
Because this trail climbs to well over 2,400 m, timing is everything:
Late June to July (Peak Wildflowers): This is the best time to see the alpine flora burst into color. Snowbars on the pass have usually melted, though you might encounter a few lingering patches.
August (Warmest Weather): Ideal for stable, warm alpine conditions, though afternoon thunderstorms are always a possibility.
September to Early October (Golden Larches): The absolute visual crown jewel of the year. The dense larch forests surrounding Val Bever and Lai da Palpuogna turn a brilliant, fiery gold, making for unbelievable photography.
Phase 1: Spinas & the High-Tech Tunnel
The adventure begins at Spinas, a quiet, forested railway station that was once a bustling basecamp for world-class engineers and heavy machinery. Stepping off the train, you can feel the weight of this engineering triumph.
Here lies the southern portal of the new tunnel. The area has quieted down, featuring a brand-new bypass channel for fish and a beautifully renaturalized floodplain along the river. Standing near the portal, it’s mind-boggling to realize that while you are about to sweat through 740 m of vertical climbing, trains like the legendary Glacier Express are gliding effortlessly directly beneath your feet through solid rock.
Note: this article describes the hike along the western arm of Val Bever, please see my other article on the Southern leg down to Bever train which can be done in either summer or winter.
Phase 2: A Serene Warm-Up in Val Bever
Leaving the hum of the railway behind, you step directly into the paradise of Val Bever. The contrast is immediate. The main trail winds gently alongside the Beverin river, a wild, crystal-clear alpine stream that bubbles through vibrant green meadows.
As you stroll through the lower valley floor, look up to your right. Towering over the landscape is the distinctive, dark, and jagged pyramid of Piz Ot (3,246m). Its sharp silhouette acts as a dramatic sentinel guarding the northern flank of the valley. Surrounded by golden larch trees, this section is a peaceful, flat warm-up before the true alpine terrain begins…
Optional Detour: Walk Deeper into the Upper Val Bever
Before you take the sharp right turn toward the mountain wall, you can choose to keep walking straight up the flat valley floor. Adding a few kilometers deeper into the valley keeps your total day's hike at a manageable 20 km or so, while revealing a completely untouched, car-free alpine wilderness:
The Pristine Riverbanks: The Beverin River is so clean it holds the rare Water Pearl Plus eco-certificate. Walking this extra stretch brings you alongside its most beautiful, braided gravel banks.
The Marmot Sanctuaries: This quiet, protected stretch of the upper valley floor is heavily populated by colonies of alpine marmots. If you keep quiet and still, you can watch them sunbathing on the boulders or hear their high-pitched alarm whistles echo off the peaks.
The Hidden Horizon: As you push further in, the valley walls part to offer stunning, unobstructed views of the massive, glacier-capped giants Piz Calderas (3,397m) and Piz d'Err (3,378m) framing the end of the basin.
Once you've soaked in the valley's hidden depths, backtrack to the junction to begin your ascent…
Phase 3: Ascending to the Crap Alv
Turn right, look up, and brace yourself. The gentle valley floor vanishes, replaced by a relentless, switchbacking wall of rock. This is the ascent to Fuorcla Crap Alv (2,466 m), and it does not pull its punches. In local Romansh, Crap Alv translates directly to "White Stone” - an accurate nod to the unique geology waiting at the summit.
A Clash of Crystals: High-Alpine Geology
Reaching the top of the pass feels like stepping onto another world. Fuorcla Crap Alv sits directly on a striking geological boundary line. Here, the ancient, crystalline, dark Albula Granite of the Err tectonic nappe collides with the brilliant, pale Triassic dolomite and limestone of the Ela nappe. The result is a stark, high-altitude lunar landscape of chalky white scree and fractured grey boulders.
As you stand at the saddle, flanked by the rugged walls of Piz Ela (3,339m) and the craggy ridges of Piz da las Blais (2,930m), you are looking at the remnants of an ancient ocean floor that was violently pushed into the sky when the Alps were formed.
Micro-Habitats: Resilient Alpine Flora
Despite the harsh wind and barren stone, this pass is far from lifeless. The unique mix of calcium-rich limestone and acidic granite creates a mosaic of radically different soil types just steps apart. In the short summer window, the rock fissures come alive with rare, resilient flora. Look closely at the rocky scree to spot the delicate Alpine Toadflax (Linaria alpina) with its striking purple and orange petals, patches of bright pink Moss Campion (Silene acaulis), and if you're lucky the legendary Edelweiss (Leontopodium nivale) hugging the white limestone shelves.
Phase 4: A Wonderland of Lakes & the Albula Pass
The descent on the northern side opens up into a completely different, dramatic world. As you pick your way down through the boulder fields, the striking emerald-green waters of the Lais digl Crap Alv come into view. These high-alpine tarns look like gems dropped into a sea of grey stone.
Continuing down toward the historic Albula Pass road, the vistas expand dramatically. Ahead of you, the jagged, light-grey limestone dolomite peaks of the Bergun Dolomites dominate the skyline. The path effortlessly blends these massive stone walls with the engineering lines of the winding mountain pass and the isolated outpost of Alp Weissenstein below.
Phase 5: The Jewel of the Forest: Lai da Palpuogna
Just when you think the views can’t get any better, the trail ducks back into the cool embrace of the larch forests and delivers its crown jewel: Lai da Palpuogna (Palpuognasee).
Widely known as one of the most beautiful places in Switzerland, this lake is almost surreal. Its waters are a deep, glowing turquoise, so crystal-clear that you can see ancient logs resting perfectly preserved on the lakebed. Framed perfectly by the imposing walls of the surrounding mountains, the peaks reflect symmetrically on the glassy, still water to create a mirror image that looks more like a painting than reality. It is the ultimate spot to sit on a wooden bench, rest your feet, and soak in the alpine silence, or perhaps enjoy a quick picnic.
Phase 6: The Arrival in Preda
From the lake, a gentle, downhill stroll through the woods brings you to your final destination: Preda. As you emerge from the trees, you are greeted by the grand northern portal of the new Albula Tunnel. Watching a red train burst out from the dark mountainside into the bright valley is a thrilling sight. You have now traced the path of the tracks, braved the steep high-alpine ridges, and witnessed firsthand where nature's beauty meets human ingenuity.
Essential Gear Checklist
This is a true T3 alpine environment. Make sure your pack contains:
Footwear: Sturdy, high-ankle hiking boots with deep vibram treads. The loose scree on the climb up and down from the Fuorcla pass will risk twisted ankles in running shoes.
Trekking Poles: Highly recommended to save your knees on the steep, loose scree descent toward the northern lakes.
Layered Clothing: A moisture-wicking base layer, an insulating fleece mid-layer, and a reliable waterproof windbreaker. The pass can be freezing and windy even if Val Bever is hot.
Sun & Hydration: High-SPF sunscreen, sunglasses, and at least 2.5 liters of water per person, plus high energy snacks. There are no refilling stations between Spinas & Alp Weissenstein.
Alpine Eats: Where to Refuel Post-Hike
After burning plenty of calories over the pass, you have earned a hearty Swiss meal! There are fantastic, rustic culinary options waiting at both ends of this trek:
At the Start (Spinas): Right by the trailhead sits the charming Gasthaus Spinas. Pull up a seat on their sunny terrace or inside their wood-paneled dining room to enjoy the great food.
At the Finish (Preda): Reward your efforts at the Hotel Preda Kulm Restaurant. Located right near the end of the trail, they serve up incredibly satisfying regional Graubunden specialties.
This hike was done by the Author on the 30th of July 2023. See my other articles about hikes in this area, including the Albula Pass. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions.
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