The Morteratsch Glacier - a Hiker’s Guide to the Moraine Route to the Boval Hut
Hike Overview
Start: Morteratsch Train Station (on the Rhaetian Railway line - the Bernina Express).
Destination: ‘Chamanna da Boval’ (SAC hut at 2,495 m) or beyond.
End: Train station loop or carry on past a quiet lake through the woods to the Camping area and local regional bus stops to Pontresina.
Distance/Gain: ~13 km (8+ miles) loop; ~680 m of vertical ascent.
Difficulty: T2-T3 Alpine Grade (incl. a cable-secured scramble below the hut).
Into the Forest & the Waterfalls
The journey starts directly from the Morteratsch Train Station. After crossing the historic Rhaetian Railway line, you quickly veer right to escape the year-round tourist crowds heading down the valley to see the glacier from a distance - see my other blog post…
The path transitions quickly into a dense forest of ancient larch and Swiss pine trees. As your legs adjust to the initial steep switchbacks, the roar of rushing water grows louder. Soon, you will cross paths with glacial streams feeding the Bernina Cascades. Tumbling down the raw rock faces, these crystalline waterfalls provide a refreshing mist that cools you down during the strenuous opening vertical kilometers once above the treeline.
Front-Row Seats to the Ice Giants
As you pass the treeline and make a short detour toward the famous Chünetta viewpoint, the horizon opens up. You are no longer just looking down at a valley; you are staring directly into the center of the Central Eastern Alps.
Pushing further up the rugged western lateral moraine of the glacier, you are flanked by an arena of legendary, snow-capped peaks:
Piz Bernina: Standing tall at 4,048 m, complete with its razor-sharp Biancograt ridge.
Piz Palü: A stunning, 3-headed ice giant draped in curtains of hanging glaciers.
Piz Zupò & Piz Morteratsch: Guarding the deep glacial plateau with towering walls of granite and ice.
The sheer scale of these mountains dominates your right side as you navigate the narrow moraine crest, listening to the deep, echoing cracks of glacier calving down below (depending on the season).
Witnessing History: The Melting Giant
Gazing down from the moraine offers a stark, eye-opening lesson in climate history. The grand expanse of ice below was once vastly different. In 1860, during the peak of the Little Ice Age, the tongue of the Morteratsch Glacier reached all the way to where the train station is today! Tourists could step off the platform and touch the ice wall within minutes. The height of the moraine also reminds you how deep these glaciers used to be!
Since systematic measurements began in 1878, the glacier has retreated over 2.6 Km. The most dramatic shift occurred recently: in 2015, due to accelerated loss of mass, the Morteratsch Glacier officially detached from its major tributary, the Pers Glacier. From a high vantage point on the trail, you can clearly see the bare, grey bedrock where the two massive ice fields used to merge into a single frozen river. The Morteratsch is now reaching a rocky escarpment, and soon a path up the left will be required for the summer tourists.
The Final Scramble to the Boval Hut
The trail tests your nerves as you approach the final stretch below the SAC hut. The T2+ path yields to a steep, technical rock barrier. This section requires you to scramble over exposed, glaciated rock ledges, which are usually rather wet and slippery.
Fortunately, the steps are reasonably well-secured with thick steel cables and safety ropes to help you pull yourself up (T3). Use careful footwork as you traverse the wide stone ledges. One final push up a steep grassy slope opens up to the sun-soaked terrace of Chamanna da Boval at 2,495 m - where a hard-earned plate of Swiss Rösti and an uninterrupted view of the Diavolezza ice fields await you…
Life at the Boval Hut: Views & Usage
Reaching the stone walls of the Chamanna da Boval gives you access to a panoramic vantage point unlike any other in the Bernina Range.
The Panoramic View
Sitting on the wooden terrace, your eyes are immediately drawn across the massive valley toward the Diavolezza mountain range and the sweeping ice fields of the Pers Glacier. Looking straight ahead, you are treated to a full profile view of the spectacular Isla Pers - a massive, rugged island of dark rock that divides the frozen rivers of ice. Note that it is possible to take a guided tour down the Pers Glacier to Morteratsch...
A High-Alpine Sanctuary
Owned and operated by the Bernina Section of the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC), this historic stone hut serves several vital roles for the mountaineering community:
Base Camp for Peak Baggers: It acts as a launching pad for mountaineers aiming to summit Piz Bernina via the technical Fortezzagrat route, or those crossing over the pristine ice steps of Piz Palü.
Overnight Refuge: With room to sleep many hikers in cozy, wood-paneled dormitory rooms, it provides a safe haven complete with warm dinners, hearty breakfasts, and shared stories for multi-day trekkers tackling the Bernina Tour.
Glacier Watch Post: It serves as an active hub for environmental researchers, geologists, and park rangers tracking the rapid changes of the surrounding ice fields.
Trail Safety & Essential Gear
While this loop is deeply rewarding, it ascends into true high-alpine territory. Preparing properly for the environment guarantees a safe, successful trek.
Critical Safety Rules
Stay on Marked Paths: The lateral moraine walls are high, steep & prone to shifting. Never step down directly onto the unstable scree sliding toward the glacier below.
Watch the Weather: Alpine weather changes quickly. High winds, heavy fog, or afternoon thunderstorms can turn the final cable-secured rock scramble dangerously slick. Plan to tackle the climb early in the day if possible, and consider reserving if staying overnight in the hut. I would not attempt this route in bad weather.
[Do Not Step on the Glacier Unprepared: The ice down below looks accessible but is riddled with hidden, deep crevasses. Do not leave the tourist trail to walk on the ice unless you are with a mountain guide and have with all the necessary equipment…]
Essential Gear List
See related article…
Returning via the Glacier Educational Trail
After eating & resting, you can bypass the technical moraine drop by descending to the right down to the normal tourist trail. The path guides you smoothly down to the flat gravel flats of the valley floor with some great views on the way. Here, you join the Glacier Educational Trail, walking past the historical markers that trace the receding ice front chronologically. There's also a climbing area to the left which is interesting.
It is a powerful, humbling experience to walk over ground that was buried under hundreds of feet of ice and snow just decades ago. Your loop ends either back at the train station or with a short extension to the scenic camping area, don’t forget the great waterfall after the bridge by the station, letting you hop onto a local regional bus with tired legs and a camera full of great photos.
I will be writing more about the standard glacier trail in both summer and winter…
Fueling your Adventure: Alpine Food Choices
Trekking through the Engadine requires plenty of energy, and the culinary rewards along this route match the grandeur of the scenery. Whether you want a quick bite or a hearty sit-down meal, you have excellent options:
At the Boval Hut: The sun terrace at Chamanna da Boval serves traditional Swiss alpine fare. Treat yourself to golden, crispy Senn-Rösti topped with melted mountain cheese and a fried egg, or warm up with a bowl of hearty Bündner Gerstensuppe (Grisons barley soup). For dessert, don’t miss a slice of homemade Engadiner Nusstorte (walnut pastry) paired with a cold Rivella or a beer - it’s great.
The Valley Finish: Once you complete the loop and arrive back down near the Morteratsch camping area, you can visit the local alpine cheese dairy (Schaukäserei Morteratsch, open in the summer). Here, you can watch traditional open-fire cheesemaking and indulge in a massive cheese buffet, fresh whey drinks, or a glass of local wine to celebrate your alpine conquest.
Alternatively, visit the excellent outdoor restaurant right next to the train station, the food is great if not cheap, and the terrace views are marvellous.
This trail was hiked by the Author on the 9th of September 2024. For more photos or to ask questions, email me here.
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