St Martin's Church, Zillis: The Sistine Chapel of the Alps

ViaSpluga: Hiking the Historic Trail from ViaMala or Roffla to Zillis 

St Martin's Church, Zillis - the Sistine Chapel of the Alps

Stepping onto the viaSpluga is like stepping back through a portal into Europe’s rugged past. For centuries, Roman merchants, medieval traders, and pack-mule handlers (Saumer) braved the treacherous transit route through the Swiss canton of Graubunden to transport silks, spices, and wine across the Alps. 

Today, this 65-km cultural hiking trail is beautifully preserved. The most spectacular day-hike on the route spans from the dark, sheer cliffs of the Viamala Gorge, stops at the breathtaking medieval masterpiece hidden inside Zillis, and finishes at the roaring Roffla Falls. Along the way, towering castle ruins stand guard over the valley, exactly as they did a millennium ago. Here is your complete guide to hiking this cultural and historical stretch of the viaSpluga.

ROUTE AT A GLANCE

• Starting Point: Thusis/Viamala Gorge Visitor Center

• Ending Point: Roffla Falls (Rofflaschlucht)

• Highlight: Church of St. Martin in Zillis

• Distance: Approx. 11-13 km (depending on precise entry & exit points, e.g., from Thusis it was over 15 km)

• Difficulty: Moderate (well-maintained mountain trails, but expects some steep paths and suspension bridges)

STAGE 1: DESCENDING INTO THE VIAMALA GORGE ("THE BAD PATH")

Your journey begins where ancient travelers shook with fear. The Viamala Gorge - literally meaning "The Bad Path" - is an 8-km chasm where vertical rock faces rise up to 300 m high, blocking out the sun. B that I started my journey from the train station in Thusis.

As you hike along the viaSpluga path, you cross jaw-dropping suspension bridges that hang high above the roaring Hinterrhein River. To truly experience its scale, stop at the visitor center and descend the 359 stone steps right into the belly of the gorge. Look closely at the cliff sides; you can still spot remnants of the narrow, 0.90-meter-wide mule tracks hacked out by the Romans. 

SENTRIES OF THE GORGE: THE VISIBLE CASTLE RUINS

As you break out from the deepest depths of the Viamala Gorge and follow the path toward the sunlit Schams Valley, look up at the towering cliffs. You are being watched by centuries of military architecture. This vital trading route was heavily fortified to control access and extract lucrative road tolls from traveling merchants. Two incredible strongholds frame this portion of your hike:

• Burg Hohen Ratien (Mountain Mystery): Perched precariously on a sheer, vertical rock plateau right at the northern entrance to the Viamala Gorge, Burg Hohen Ratien is one of the oldest continually occupied settlements in Switzerland. Rather than a traditional noble family home, this massive complex served as a heavily fortified Roman outpost and medieval sanctuary for packers and pilgrims before they braved the "Bad Path". It features an exceptionally rare, well-preserved 5th-century Christian baptistery.

• Burgruine Cagliatscha (Lone Sentinel): Further along the valley slope between Clugin and Andeer, the striking ruined tower of Cagliatscha Castle cuts an imposing figure against the sky. Built on a rocky spur around 1266, it was strategically positioned to oversee all traffic flowing through the valley toward Zillis. The tower was violently burned down during the chaotic "Schams Feud" of the 1450s, but its jagged stone shell remains open to the public as a dramatic hiking milestone.

Note that I will write other articles on the Viamala hiking routes…

STAGE 2: ZILLIS AND THE "SISTINE CHAPEL OF THE ALPS"

Emerging past the ancient fortresses, the landscape gives way to the wide, sunny valley floor of the Schams (Val Schons). Here sits the quiet mountain village of Zillis, a crucial Roman resting post (mutatio) where travelers would change horses and pray in gratitude for surviving the gorge.

At the heart of the village is the modest, Romanesque Church of St. Martin. Don't let its simple stone exterior fool you. Inside, it houses one of the world's greatest medieval art treasures: a virtually intact, 12th-century painted wooden ceiling.

The Masterpiece Overhead

Created between 1096 and 1114, the ceiling is a rigid grid of 153 square panels (9 rows by 17 panels). It was designed like a medieval Mappa Mundi (map of the world) to teach moral lessons to weary travelers:

• The Demonic Ocean (Outer 48 Panels): The outermost panels depict terrifying, mythical sea monsters, sirens playing fiddles, and dragons. They represented the chaos and evil of the untamed wilderness - a direct mirror of the dangerous alpine landscape outside.

• The Sacred Continent (Inner 105 Panels): The interior tells a vibrant graphic story. It tracks the life of Christ, including a massive 15-panel epic dedicated to the journey of the Three Wise Men (a travel theme that deeply resonated with local hikers).

The Medieval Artist's Secrets

The Masters of Zillis didn't paint this balancing on high scaffolding. Instead, the local fir-wood blocks were painted on the ground in a workshop before being slotted into the ceiling joists. The artists used tempera paint (pigments bound with egg yolk or plant gums) applied over a smooth layer of buttercream-colored whitewashed plaster. 

Their palette relied purely on natural, earth-based minerals:

• Ochres & Iron Oxides: For warm skin tones, vibrant clothing, and deep reds.

• Malachite and Verdigris: Creating the muted, eerie greens of the sea monsters.

• Charcoal Black: Used at the very end to draw bold, heavy outlines that give the artwork an expressive, almost modern comic-book clarity.

Tip: Because the church is of priceless historical value, it is left entirely unheated during the freezing Swiss winters to protect the wood from cracking or flaking.

Vital Visitor Info: Limited Hours, Tickets & Mirrors

Planning your arrival time is crucial. The Church of St. Martin and its accompanying town museum operate on limited daily opening hours, typically welcoming visitors from 10:00 AM to 5:30 PM during the season. Keep in mind that the church closes strictly to the public during active church services. 

Because it is a highly protected cultural monument, you should buy your ticket immediately upon entering the village at the official Zillis Museum Exhibition located on the main street. 

The Local Secret: Staring straight up at 153 tiny panels will quickly strain your neck. When you check in at the ticket desk, you will be handed a special handheld viewing mirror. By holding the mirror flat in front of your chest and looking down into it, you can easily walk through the aisle and examine the intricate details of the ceiling overhead without craning your neck!

STAGE 3: JOURNEY TO THE ROFFLA FALLS

Leaving Zillis, the viaSpluga guides you further south through the historic spa town of Andeer before the valley constricts once again into your final destination: the Roffla Gorge.

Historically, the Roffla was another brutal bottleneck for traders, blocked by a massive, crashing waterfall. However, its modern accessibility is a story of pure human grit. In the early 20th century, a local immigrant named Christian Pitschen-Melchior returned from America to run the historical canyon inn. Over seven long years, using 8,000 explosive blasts, he hand-carved a gallery path straight through the bare rock face.

Today, you can hike along his hand-carved stone tunnel, feeling the mist on your face as the trail leads you safely directly under the roaring waterfall. I will be writing a separate article on this topic...

Bonus Historical Detour: 

Right at the threshold of the Roffla Gorge, the timeline fast-forwards from the Middle Ages to WWII. Hidden in the rock face near Sufers is the Crestawald Fortress Museum - a massive, subterranean artillery bunker that was kept a strict military secret for over 60 years. Note of course that you can do this tour in either direction, and I normally prefer to finish at the Andeer bus stop.

FUELING YOUR HIKE: FOOD OPTIONS ALONG THE ROUTE

Hiking through alpine gorges requires plenty of energy. Fortunately, the viaSpluga offers excellent places to rest and try traditional Swiss-Alpine cuisine right along the trail:

• Viamala Gorge Kiosk: Before descending into the chasm, the visitor center kiosk & shop offers quick refreshments, warm coffee, and light Swiss snacks to fuel your descent.

• Zillis Village Cafes: After your church visit, step out into Zillis to find cozy local bakeries and small cafes serving Bundner Nusstorte (a decadent, traditional Graubunden walnut tart) and local alpine cheeses.

• Andeer (The Gastronomic Hub): Located perfectly between Zillis and the Roffla, the historic town of Andeer is your best bet for a hearty lunch. Traditional hotel-restaurants here serve authentic regional dishes like Capuns (chard leaves stuffed with Spatzle dough and dried meat, simmered in broth and cream) and Maluns (slow-fried grated potatoes served with local applesauce and alpine cheese). 

• Gasthaus Rofflaschlucht: Cap off your entire hike right at the historic inn located at the entrance of the Roffla Falls. The restaurant serves comforting, warm Swiss plates, allowing you to dine directly next to the rushing river where the canyon trail began, and in a truly amazing ambiance.

HIKING TIPS FOR THE VIASPLUGA

• Logistics: The PostBus network services Thusis, Viamala, Zillis, Andeer, and Rofflaschlucht. If your legs get tired, you can easily hop on a bus to skip a section - as I did.

• Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots or shoes with good grip are essential for the wet, slippery steps in the gorges.

• Tickets: Entry fees are required for the managed walkways inside both the Viamala Gorge and the Roffla Falls, as well as the Zillis Church exhibition.

This route was hiked various times by the Author, but I only managed to go inside the church on the 10th of June 2019. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions.