Hiking with Witches: The Legendary Hexenplatte Route in Sedrun
Tucked away in the dramatic peaks of Graubunden lies one of Switzerland’s best-kept alpine secrets. If you are tired of the crowded tourist tracks and are looking for a trail that mixes nice climbs, jaw-dropping views, and a heavy dose of ancient alpine folklore, then get ready. We are heading to Sedrun to tackle the Hexenplatte - the "Witches' Plate."
This challenging route takes you high above the Val Tujetsch to a mysterious, perfectly flat rock where legends say mountain witches used to hold their midnight dances. Intrigued? Here is everything you need to know to experience this mystical trail for yourself…
The Gateway: Historic Sedrun & Val Tujetsch
Your journey begins in Sedrun, a charming alpine village nestled in the sun-drenched Val Tujetsch. For centuries, this valley was isolated, shaped by Romanesque culture and the fierce peaks surrounding it. The locals here still speak Sursilvan, a rare and beautiful dialect of the Rhaeto-Romansch language.
Before the advent of modern tourism, Sedrun was a rugged farming community where life revolved around the seasons and the church. Because the mountains were so imposing, early valley dwellers used folklore to explain the raw, unpredictable power of nature around them. As you walk past the traditional wooden barns in the village, you can practically feel the history whispering from the timbers. (Today it is becoming more of a fancy ski resort destination in winter which is a little sad.)
Getting There: Public Transport Access
One of the best things about hiking in Switzerland is how effortlessly you can reach remote trailheads. Sedrun is exceptionally public-transport-friendly:
The Train Route: You can take the famous Matterhorn Gotthard Railway directly to the Sedrun station.
From the West (Andermatt): The train climbs a spectacular route over the Oberalp Pass.
From the East (Chur): Connect via Disentis, where you will board the local mountain railway for the final short stretch to Sedrun.
The trail begins right at the station, meaning you don’t need a car to experience this hike.
Route Summary: Classic vs. Lake Extension
Classic Circular Route: 11.5 kilometers (7.3 miles) | ~4.5 hours | +800 meters (2,950 feet) elevation gain and loss. Classified as a challenging T2/3 mountain hike. Starts and ends at Sedrun Station.
Hexensee Alpine Extension: 14+ kilometers (8.9 miles) | ~6 hours | 1,100 meters (3,600 feet) elevation gain. Classified as a T3/4 difficult alpine route traversing almost pathless, rocky terrain.
The Route: From Valley Floor to Alpine Heights
Leaving Sedrun station, the trail starts gently, cutting west through vibrant green hay meadows. Enjoy the flat ground while it lasts. Soon, the path plunges into the L'Ondadusa valley and begins a relentless, zigzagging climb upward.
You will sweat your way through a dense forest up to Pegn dil Capi. The shade of the trees is a welcome relief as your legs conquer the first few hundred meters of elevation. Reaching the tree line, an inviting bench allows you to pause for breath and enjoy the striking view of the Val Tujetsch and the sprawling Medel Glacier across the valley.
As you break past the forest, the landscape expands into a sea of high-altitude flora. Depending on the season, you will hike through blooming alpine roses, purple heather, and wild blueberry or cowberry bushes. Keep your eyes trained on the jagged crags above; this rugged alpine terrain is an ideal habitat for native fauna. Shy chamois frequently cross the trail, while marmots whistle from the scree fields.
Arriving at the Hexenplatte (Platta dil Barlot)
Perched high on the wide-open Alp Caschle pasture sits the crown jewel of the hike: the Hexenplatte. In the local language, it is called Platta dil Barlot. When you see it, it feels completely out of place. It is a massive, perfectly flat rock sitting directly amidst a rugged mountain slope:
The Legend: Local lore says a giant spider carried this massive slab from the opposite Alp Culmatsch across the valley on a single, impossibly strong thread.
The Witch Trials: During the darker periods of European history, valleys like Tujetsch were rife with superstition. Locals believed that witches gathered on this exact rock under the full moon to dance and brew fierce storms.
The Tradition: Today's hikers have turned the eerie history into a fun ritual. Tradition dictates that when you reach the stone, you must stand on it and do a quick dance to appease the mountain spirits before continuing your journey!
An Alpine Extension: Up to Hexensee (Lai dalla Stria)
If your legs still have some energy left, don’t turn back at the pastures. You can extend the route into a more rugged alpine loop by taking the blue-and-white T4 alpine trail to Hexensee, known locally as Lai dalla Stria (the Lake of the Witches).
The terrain quickly transitions from grassy slopes to rocky, pathless wilderness. As you climb higher, the dramatic peaks of Wittenalpstock and Oberalpstock unveil themselves. Reaching the highest ridge, the Hexensee lies before you. This pristine, mirror-smooth alpine lake is nestled among bright rocks, offering jaw-dropping glass-like reflections of the surrounding mountain panorama. This area is also part of the famous Gotthard Crystal Trek, and sharp-eyed hikers might even spot small quartz crystals gleaming along the way.
The return trail loops down past massive wooden avalanche barriers (Stavel Da Caschle) and drops back into the valley floor.
Post-Hike Food Options in Sedrun
Once back in Sedrun, reward your efforts by diving into the local culinary scene. Val Tujetsch is famous for hearty, traditional Graubunden cuisine:
Restaurant Hotel La Cruna: Step into their historic Bundnerstube, which dates back to 1796. It is the perfect spot to try authentic regional specialties.
Hotel Kruzli Sedrun: Known for its cozy, local atmosphere, this spot is highly recommended for a post-hike comforting meal.
Other Great Hikes Around Sedrun
If you are sticking around the region for a few days, the Disentis-Sedrun area offers incredible variety:
The Classic: Sedrun to Disentis (Senda Sursilvana): For a completely different vibe, this 5.6-mile family-friendly trail follows the sunny side of the valley. It passes through the ancient Walser village of Segnas - famed for its sun-darkened wooden houses - and crosses the striking Bugnei Railway Viaduct. It ends at the historic Benedictine Monastery in Disentis.
The Source of the Rhine (Tomasee / Lai da Tuma): Sedrun sits right at the headwaters of one of Europe's greatest rivers. Starting from the top of the Oberalp Pass, you can take a nice trail up to Tomasee, the official source of the Rhine, cradled in a high alpine amphitheater.
Conclusion
The Hexenplatte and its sister trails aren't just physical challenges; they are a walk through time, culture and alpine myth. If you want a hiking experience that leaves you with tired legs and a great story to tell, this valley is the one to beat...
This route was hiked by the Author on the 21st of October 2025 - one of my last before retirement. See also my other articles about routes in this area, both summer and winter. Contact me by email for photos or to ask questions.
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